Author Topic: Maple ELB  (Read 3416 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AKAPK

  • Guest
Maple ELB
« on: August 06, 2009, 10:15:51 pm »
Since I never Made an ELB type Bow before, I need to ask, is there supposed to be bend in the handle.The bow is 70" long 1/1/16 wide at the HandleSo far I'm at 24" on the tree.Phillip

[attachment deleted by admin]

Offline sailordad

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,045
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2009, 10:19:30 pm »
phillip

an elb should have a full compass tiller,with some bend in the handle area
i always wanted a harley,untill it became the "thing to ride"
i ride because i love to,not to be part of the crowd

radius

  • Guest
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2009, 10:24:50 pm »
sounds like you got 6 " of draw or so left, the elb's drew long (i think)...you'll be good if you just thin out and narrow the handle area. 

i just made one similar to this, but flattened the belly...i found that the tiller tree gets in the way of seeing the bend properly once you're right down in the handle area...just used it for exercising the bow at that point, and tested the curve in the mirror...

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2009, 10:47:26 pm »
ELBs are traditionally narrow profile, bendy handle, full compass tillered bows.

[attachment deleted by admin]

AKAPK

  • Guest
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2009, 04:03:54 am »
Thanks much, Much Help :)

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #5 on: August 07, 2009, 04:36:15 am »
Like wot the others said, more bend in the middle, (lookin' good tho')!
I'll be interested to see how it turns out, I have some Maple staves and my Daughter wants to make a bow sometime.
Mind it's English Maple dunno if it will be the same as yours...
Here's my Self Yew ELB

Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

DCM

  • Guest
Re: Maple ELB
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2009, 09:19:16 am »
It depends.  If it is taking set then yes, use more wood.  If not, then you are fine like that.  If you want a full compass bow adjust the length and width to justify using the extra wood in the middle.  But if you have plenty of wood, working the center will just rob cast.

"ELB" is such a ambiquious term/design.  The 12th thru 15th century war bows were totally different than the Victorian era (and even thru to the early 20th century) "lawn" bows, although other than tiller shape, draw weight and lenght they were virtually identical and frequently referred to without distinction.

I personally favor the full compass look, allowing only modest movement directly under the bow hand.  But this usually doesn't require the typical elb lenght, rather more like typical woodland bow, closer to 60" ntn rather than 70" or more.