heat treating shafts

[chasing crow]

Hello all,
As a complete newbe, I have another question. I am working on a walnut shoot arrow shaft for my first attempt. I have seen numerous mentions of heat treating of shafts using a gas grill, but I can't recall reading of the actual mehtod. Any input or guidance as to sources of info?
Thanks,
Chasing Crow

[Pat B]

CC, When I work with sourwood I use my gas kitchen stove for heat straightening(usually with oil so not to scorch it). After I'm sure everything is good and straight I will start at one of the shoot and begin to heat it(without oil this time), rotating the shoot until it beginning to turn color, than work my way down the shoot until the entire shoot has been heat treated. Be careful at the far end because any moisture will come out as steam and can burn you. Once the shoots are tempered I let them rest on a flat surface for a few days at least before continuing to work them. This allows then to rehydrate.
   I have not tried walnut shoots.

[chasing crow]

Pat,
Thanks for the info. I will give it a try as soon as my burgers are off the grill this afternoon!
Chasing Crow

[dmassphoto]

Hi all, sorry for reviving an old thread, but was just wondering if it's wise/possible to heat treat arrows after they've already been fletched and points are put on?  Would heating just the area between the point and fletchings work?  I'm guessing most-likely not, but just wanted to ask in case it's not a stupid question afterall. 

Also, what type of oil should one use when heat treating?  Do you even need oil when the shafts are already straight?  Any heatsource would work, correct?  Just as long as it slightly scorches the arrow, right?  I've heard of putting them in the oven as well, are there any particular temp settings that go along with that, or will anything do?  Thanks for any info!

[Pat B]

Yes, you can heat treat just the center of the shaft. It will make the shaft stiffer so it will change the spine. I only use oil when straightening wood but no oil when tempering(heat treating).

[AncientArcher76]

Sure u can heat just the center and dont pop the whole thing fletching and all or it will be gone immediatly... possibley frying the whole shaft.  A hot box will work if u dont have them fletched, a heat gun, an oven even a small torch.  I have once lined them up in front of my fireplace.  But its only my opinion...take care!

Russell

[mullet]

 Why would you want to try heat treating to change the spine? Sounds like a lot of trouble and guess work. Plus the potential of having an arrow blow from being over dry. It seems it would be easier to make another set of arrows with the appropriate spine.

[dmassphoto]

Not trying to change the spine, but they are getting really bendy after a few shoots and I was told they'd hold up better if heat treated. 

A hot box will work if u dont have them fletched, a heat gun, an oven even a small torch.  I have once lined them up in front of my fireplace

How about an electric stove, or since I just want the middle done...a candle? *shrugs*

[mullet]

 Why not lay them on a table and burnish them? And some hard wood shafts, you will constantly have to straighten. It's just the nature of the wood. That's why I shoot cane.

[dmassphoto]

Are you saying burnish as in rub them together or on a piece of wood?  I'm really new to woodworking so don't really know.  I'm up for any ideas that will help out, and I plan on doing it right on my next set of arrows, just don't want to start over with the ones I already have.

[George Tsoukalas]

I've found that with shoots straightening them every few days negates the need for heat for straightening. Further, in about 2 weeks they begin to hold any corrections you've done to them. Work it right and no head will be needed for straightening. I've never heat treated for the sake of heat treating. I have used heat for straightening. There's arrow info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Pat B]

When I'm straightening hardwood shoot shafts I use oil to prevent scorching. Once the shafts are straight I will start at one end and heat until scorched(without oil) then move down the shaft doing the same. I do this for the color(camo) but it also tempers them. I use our gas kitchen stove for this. Be careful when you get near the far end. If any moisture is still in the shoot it will come out as steam and burn you. Also, after tempering, give the shafts a week or so to rehydrate before shooting. You can continus to build the arrows but they will be brittle until they rehydrate.

[dmassphoto]

So it's ok to fletch them and everything, just don't shoot them.  Sounds reasonable.  How do you go about heat straightening them?  I've only just looked down the shaft and bent them accordingly, but after a few times they do get a little snaky.  They shoot ok, they just aren't "straight as an arrow."  If anyone is going to the Classic, I'd love to hook up with you for a few minutes to get a quick face-to-face explanation.

[Pat B]

I'll be at the Classic and shouldn't be hard to find.  Bring some shoot shafts along with you and I'll show you how I do it.    When straightening any shafts I start with the worst bends, straighten them and set the shafts aside to cool. If you try to straighten them all at once you will rebend what you have already straightened. I usually work 6 or so at one time but over a 3 or 4 day period. 
  None of my shoot or cane arrows are "straight as an arrow"!  If they spin true with the points attached they should fly fine for you. 

[dmassphoto]

I'll be at the Classic and shouldn't be hard to find.  Bring some shoot shafts along with you and I'll show you how I do it.    When straightening any shafts I start with the worst bends, straighten them and set the shafts aside to cool. If you try to straighten them all at once you will rebend what you have already straightened. I usually work 6 or so at one time but over a 3 or 4 day period. 
  None of my shoot or cane arrows are "straight as an arrow"!  If they spin true with the points attached they should fly fine for you. 

Thanks for the offer!  Currently, the shafts I'm making are simple 5/16" dowel rods from Lowes.  Would that still be applicable to what you are talking about?  Once I learn more, I will be making my own, hopefully sooner than later.