Primitive arrows

[Little John]

After reading Billys article in the new P.A. and learning to do a much better job at hand fletching I am on a mission to make a truly primitive arrow. Looks now like the toughest part is cutting the noclk and notching for the stone point.   Now with sinue bow strings somewhat mastered I will be on another mission to make the stone age bow. Will back to cutting the nock.    Kenneth

[Hillbilly]

If you knock off a good sharp flake of flint and pressure-flake some fine serrations along the edge, it works good for cutting in nocks and hafting grooves. You can also notch the shaft on two sides, and split/break out the hafting nock.

[Little John]

Yep I am going to have to go out and make some tools and get it done. Thanks Steve and have a nice weekend.     Kenneth

[Pat B]

I was gonna suggest what Steve did but he beat me to it.

[Little John]

Yep I have about got a stone point ready to fit and the nock should be easier. All in all not so tough after all. Just takes a little time. What I need to find is some thin sandstone spalls but might have to wait for the six inches of snow we got Friday night to melt. Can't wait to get her done.    Kenneth

[Little John]

I got the point hafted on in a primitive way and see there is still much to leard about pine pitch. I Had it all over the arrow the point and all over my hands. Just used straight pitch (very sticky) got some in the noch and heated the point and arrow end. I think it would be better with out the heattill after the hafting or maybe not at all. Any way I am more used to epoxy so this is a learning experience. I think the point is on pretty good but not sure for how many shots.   Kenneth

[Pat B]

All it takes is one shot!
  By adding the wax and charcoal dust to the pitch it makes it a bit more manageable to work with even though it is still quite sticky. What I do is drip the heated pitch glue into the hafting slot, heat the point and set it in the slot as straight as possible. After it cools some, I make my sinew wrap and if the point needs adjusting a little heat to the point will allow you to do so. I sometimes have to adjust 2 or 3 times before the point is true. If you try to adjust after the glue is cool you will break the bond but re-heating will set it again. A spin on your finger tip will tell you if it is true!

[Little John]

Cool Pat, that is about what I had come up with, heat the point later for tweaking. Maybe keep the p[itch room temp till after the hafting then heat the point to make it set up. I might have to come up with some primitive exzam gloves as my fingers have been stuck together ever since handling the pitch.  Will cut nock and fletch later.

[Pat B]

Turpentine or alcohol will take the pitch off your fingers. If they don't work, a little more alcohol will take your mind off of the situation!

[Hillbilly]

If you drink enough alchohol, it will come out through the pores of your skin, and the pitch won't stick to you at all-a preemptive strike!

[Little John]

I here ya Steve. The arrow came out pretty good. Pics later. Actually the nocks and point slots were not bad at all with stone tools. I think now that preparing the fletches might be the hardest part as in the thinning and sanding with primitive methods. Maybe the easier way will be to use secondaries that are mich more delicate and will be thinnet and easier. Any way the arrow is very functional  shoots good and totally primitive. I am sure I could make meat with it.    Kenneth

[DanaM]

Kenneth check out jackcrafty's build-a-long he did a great job with it. Looking forward to some pictures

[Little John]

Dana yes the build along is awsome. Mine is not nearly so nice, just a using type.  I just skimmed over the build along and will read in depth soon and try again.   kenneth