Dear Whitewoodshunter, You did not specify what kind of point you wish to glue onto your arrow. Most your replies assume you are talking about commercially available field or target or broadhead points. There are some that have a parallel wall and slide over the untapered shaft. The cheap sheet metal chromed plated points for kid's arrows use a sort of plier or crimping tool. You could just set with a nail set or sharp nail for that kind. Ferrule tite is heated and when melted, rubbed onto the tapered shaft by touching it to the shaft you rotate by hand. When it sets, you heat the base of your point with a flame. The point is held with pliers. When sufficiently hot, press hard onto the ferrule tite coated shaft and hold tight until it starts to set and when it doesn't move much, quickly dip the arrow and head into a soup can of cold water. Cross drilling and counter sinking and then rivetting in a brass escutcheon nail will make it pretty permanent. Epoxy if not set in warm conditions can pop off with impact in real hot weather. You can take a tapered tap and cut some threads into the inside of the soft steel field point. You should use a thick thread cutting oil. Wash off the oil with lacquer thinner or the more expensive acetone before glueing. Tanged trade points of metal, stone points, handforged socket points are another matter. We used to take the cap of a poop bottle and fold it into thirds to make a cheap point.P.S. on the threaded field point. Squirt some Tite Bond III into the cavity and screw the tapered shaft into the point. They make steel and some brass field points that are made with the threads built into the point. You'll likely get tips for hafting points other than field or target points if you specify other kinds. Hope that helps. P. S. S. I meant to write the cap off of a pop (soda) bottle. My bad.
