Helical vs offset?

[bebloomster]

Is there really all that much difference? I shoot a 45 pound 68" longbow at targets mostly under 50 yards. Wood arrows (either cedar or sitka) spined in the 40 to 45 range. I can generally hit an 8" paper plate if I take my time. I have been using LW feathers slightly angled to the left... 5" Pope and Young cut. Would going to a helical fletching really make much difference?

[Pat B]

Helical imparts a bit more spin to an arrow. I have always used a slightly off set straight fletch with good arrow flight. I tried helical but they were noisier, slower and I just preferred the offset fletching.

[Hillbilly]

Helical makes a lot more difference when you put a broadhead on that arrow, or when your bow isn't close to centershot, or if your arrows aren't matched exactly to your bow. I would rather have my slower arrow hit what I am aiming at than go zipping by it at a high rate of speed a foot to the left. (translation: I can put helical fletching on my arrows and usually shoot them with a bunch of different bows, even if the spine isn't exactly matched instead of making a different set of arrows for every bow I might make, or I can shoot the same arrows with broadheads or field points and they will shoot much the same.) Others will disagree. It's just a personal preference.

[Timo]

They both work well,but I think helical shoot better also. I also shoot a parabolic cut feather,so that helps to hide some noise. I need all the help I can get

[Fletcher the Arrow Maker]

All of my fletching for custom arrow is done with full elngth feathers and burned to shape.  I use a shield shape for the classical look.  True it may be a bit noisier than parabolic or this new goes bananas shape.

For a heavy bow with broadheads I think a helical is nearly a must.  I can also trim the height of the feather down a touch with the burner wire shape.

The key to arrow stability is the spin, and that is produced by the total feather surface and the angle of attack to the air.  The helical allows a compostie angle that produces spin faster than a straight angled fletch.

This spin speed also allows recovery to straight flight a bit faster off the rest.

[El Destructo]

I just bought a Dozen Helical Twist Natural Turkey Fletched Arrows....and I love the way they shoot....really accurate as all get out....but I have never been cut so many times from Fletchings as I have with this Dozen....they about bled me out....I don't know what give....but Off The Hand....they are Murder!!!

[Pat B]

Mike, try a floppy rest. It gives just enough protection without loosing the feel of shooting off your hand. I love them and use on most of my bows these days.

[El Destructo]

                         I may have to break down and add one on a Bow and see if I can tolerate them....

[adb]

Remember... the longer the fletch, the higher the profile, the further back it is on the shaft, and the more it's helically fletched, the more steerage correction the feather will provide. The downside (there is always a downside), the slower and noisier the arrow will be. That being said, I use 5" helically fletched shield cuts for broadheads, cuz I'd like to hit what I'm shooting at, and the trajectory is negligible. For pure target shooting, I use a 4" parabolic, with a 5 degree offset. Also, remember to offset to the feather wing, ie., if you're using right wing feathers, use a right offset. Never straight fletch for trad gear, you want the arrow to spin somewhat for best flight.

[beardedhorse]

Not to be redundant but I echo Hillbilly's sentiments.  Put a broadhead on your shafts and see if it makes a difference on your 20 or 25 yard eight inch paper plate.  Good distance and muley deer kill zone size.  The loss in velocity is worth the sacrifice for accuracy.  I like to tell all the chrono-heads that a faster miss is still nonetheless, a miss.  El Destructo -  trim the leading edge of the feathers to leave some quill exposed.  Cut the qulll at a diagonal so the leading part is a sharp point.  File the quill with sandpaper or borrow your wife's fingernail emory board until it "feathers" into a smooth transition from feather to wood.  Do all the flletch this way.  Wrap with wet sinew or fine silk thread and capture the running end with a loop and pull the thread under.  Do at least ten wraps and trim the running end so that no thread is pulled out from under the wraps when you free  the loop.  Seal with fine lacquer.  Keep shooting off your hand.  If you cant the bow so the arrow is under your dominant eye, pointing your index finger knuckle will be close to pointing the arrow.  Primitive bows have no rests and consequently you shoot off the hand.  Shooting off an elevated rest on  traditional bows as opposed to the shelf puts the arrow in a different relationship to your knuckle.  I can open up another can of worms with right helical or left helical for right or left hand shooters.  Your brace hieght may dictate how long a fletch you put on your arrow but I recommend a 5 to 5 and 1/2th shield cut for two blade broadhead points without cut-out spaces in them.  Plains Indian arrows added more feather by making long, low cut fletching and weren't concerened with the noise of the feather rubbing against the bow during draw that would sppok a buffalo or pony soldier.  I have handled museum artifacts which had the angled, offset fletch you currently shoot. 

[bebloomster]

I don't hunt at all.... nothing against it, I just don't have any use for the dead animal so am not about to shoot it in the first place.  Not being a hunter I don't shoot any broadheads.  The closest I come are those Small Game 1 points from Gary Kelly, I really do like those.  From the previous responses I've pretty much made up my mind to just stay with the offset straight fletching that I have been using.  Just as long as I can keep within that paper plate I am happy.