cuttin some sage

[Kenny H]

Hey guys I wont be able to sleep tonight cause I'm gonna go cut some osage in the morning. I have a couple questions before I go though. I have a couple gallons of latex paint I planned to seal the split staves with. Do you think this will be ok to use or do I need to use something better? I have went back the last couple of weeks and reread huntin the osage bow(first 3 chapters) several times in prep. of this day. I'm worried I'm gonna screw them up. I haven't split any staves at all yet so this will be new to me. Any last words of advice before I get at it in the morning would greatly be appreciated.      Thank you all in advance         Kenny

[Justin Snyder]

Advice.... Get plenty of sleep, your going to work harder than you think. 

I have used latex paint before, it works fine.  But...... I prefer to use white glue. Latex paint takes a couple of hours to dry. If you put it in your truck still tacky you will not be happy. If you do drip wood glue in your truck it washes right out. 

[ricktrojanowski]

I like shellac for the ends, or Thoroseal.  They both dry really quick and dry clear, so you can see the rings.  Just do a few coats of either.

[Timo]

Kenny, I like to use shellac to seal my staves.  Alot easier to see the rings later.They tell me that paint will work, I have just never used it.

Before you cut, Look for catfaces and any limbs,and see what you can get from the tree before you fell it.Lay on the ground and look up the tree.Is the bark straight,does it have any twist. How big is the flares at the ground,and how high off the ground do I need to cut, and still get enough length.

You plan of splitting in the field or at home? Whichever, just study the log before you split it,try to read the grain. So much more to staveing out a log than just whacking on wedges.

Just use common sense and be mindful before you set a wedge.

[Kenny H]

I'm pretty sure we are gonna split them where we are. I might try to get a can or two of shellac but I am trying to save money cause I am layed off from work and I have some extra paint sittin around. Gotta save what I have for Pappy's place. Once I wedge both sides will it kinda pop out where it should? I figure that I can take a little off when they are ready to get rid of the paint I put on when the staves are ready. Should I debark them right away or can they wait?

[Timo]

Start your wedge on the end grain,sink it in well and then start another wedge on the bark in the split.Just keep working down the stave, I wedge where needed,but generally every 8-10 ".You'll know after you get started.I also take a sharp hatchet and cut those pesky lil hangers between wedges.It helps to keep the split running straight.

No need to wedge both sides unless you get a real tough or big log,most will split out from one side.

Also no need to debark in the field. You can do that after you get them home.

[Justin Snyder]

Do NOT debark it in the field.  Osage should be cured with the bark on or remove the bark and sapwood and seal the back.

[FlintWalker]

I like to drive a single bit ax in them to get the split started. Then follow up with wedges.  Once you get them busted in half you'll have a very clear idea as to how the grain's gonna run.
  If you take the bark off, it would be wise to remove all the sapwood too. If you don't, you'll be inviting cracks.  Some leave the sapwood on, but every time I have... they eventually cracked.
  If you have trouble with your wedges jumping out...  Light taps, instead of heavy blows will keep it in the wood.

[FlintWalker]

Also, If you cut any small ones only big enough for two halves. Split them with all the tension wood on one side and all the compression wood on the other. If you split them 90 degrees from that, both sides usually dry with a sideways bend. where as if you cut them the other way, one or both will draw into a reflex.

[Pappy]

Lots of good advice here,be prepaired for some work, Its worth it but is is hard work.It is a lot easier if you have a little help.The spiltting can wear you down so pace yuorsels,And for sure be careful falling the tree,they can do some crazy things.Good luck.
   Pappy

[leapingbare]

I've cut allot of sage and can say its dangerous work.. Osage usually grows close together and the limbs sorta lock together.. they usually don't fall after you cut them.. i have had to hold my chainsaw over my head and cut them high to get the log.
 also take a sample cut to check the rings. if you only cut a lil nick in a tree just enough to see the rings and there not very good you don't have to fell that tree and it should recover from the test cut.
  take a file to sharpen you chain.. that Osage will put a hurten on your chain.
 take a good axe.. when you cut the high don't cut the all the way through get them close and finish it off with your axe.. thats a little safer.
 also some sorta shoulder pad is a good idea. after you carry out a few your shoulders will get torn up.
 i waited till i got them home to seal the ends. i used paint.
 Hope this helps.. just be carefull. Good Luck and take pics

[Kenny H]

Takin the kids to school and goin cuttin! Ill get some pics today and try and post them later. Thanks for all the advice guys. Kenny

[John K]

I hope you ate a BIG breakfast !   

[Susquehannock]

Like Leapingbear said, osage likes to lock together and only fall half way to the ground sometimes. I once had one hanging, and pulled and pulled until a section came down and cracked me in the head. Nearly knocked me out. Safety first with this stuff! Be prepared to get the workout of a lifetime! Last time I cut osage I was 26, and in great shape and the next morning I felt like I had been run over by a truck. Stock up on some advil and send us some pictures!

[Sidewinder]

Well, if you have already left to go get it than this advise will be late but hopefully it will help. I agree harvesting osage is hard work, but worth it. Very good advise given.
 Timo said " Before you cut, Look for catfaces and any limbs,and see what you can get from the tree before you fell it.Lay on the ground and look up the tree.Is the bark straight,does it have any twist." Very important advise here. You don't want to mess with it if its too twisty. I recommend being pesimistic rather than optomistic when it comes to evaluating a tree. Its alot of work and I won't need anymore firewood do you?
 I also will select a tree that I can clear a good drop zone for so that I minimize getting hung up. I also try and position my splits to put most of the flaws on the outside edge of a stave ( for later removal when roughing out the bow. I have found that you can get mroe usable wood that way if you can read the grain of where it will split and then try to split it to minimize the effects of the flaws.
 I like to start my splits with a small, durable handax ( Walmart sporting goods $6) that I can beat on with my sledge with out caring whether I am mushrooming the end. I have found that starting with a wedge doe'snt work as well and that the  thinner blade gets started easier. Once thats started I just leap frog with my wedges down the stave until done. I like to seal my ends with shellac but I am sure you can use what you have available. Yhe thing about painting the ends is its hard to see the rings when you get ready to select a stave and want to chase a ring. You might have to cut off the end to get started and thats an extra step later that I try to avoid. Hope this helps and good harvesting. Danny