show us your medieval arrows

[triton]

  I've managed to hang on to mostly the same arrows for about 8 months now.

[YewArcher]

Your doing good!

[youngbowyer]

I don't use a ruler but it was just a tip i just thought of. I try to get the whippings nice and spaced too. i usually mkae 2-3 sets a year depending on my parents as they sometimes go,"what! you need more arrows again, you just ordered stuf" so some times i only have like 7 arrows to shoot with. Yeah i lose a lot of them and sometimes break em when i straighten them.

[Rod]

Steve,
They are supposed to look even and consistent. That is how livery shafts were done.
Instead of using a ruler, you can hold a pin and count and pick apart as you go along.
If you like them irregular, take a look at the whipping on the so-called replica English shafts in TTBB4 and tell me what you think of them....
Rod.

[YewArcher]

opps, sorry there fellas. i forget how precisly you need to say things on these boards. 

I like them that way for my personall arrows because they are quick and easy to do. I shoot a LOT and loose a LOT of arrows so do not spend much time on my personall arrows. thats not including all the arrows I loose at expos and shows when people try and shoot them at shows.  I sell these, I make these for US warbow entusiasts and when i do I make them consistant. I did mention that already.

Often I find myself regretting even posting on these boards as It seems that people just love to find something wrong with what you are doing and feel the need to coment. 

I will remove my photos as to not offend your superior tastes by looking at my "field" bang around arrows. So sorry for troubling you fellas with my shoody craftsmanship.

Steve

[triton]

Steady there Steve (yewArcher)  I understood what you were saying.  Personally I don't whip my own arrows.  Looks nice but can't be bothered with it.  If aunthenticity is needed then I'd use silk thread to cut drag, covered with perhaps some pva with something snot green mixed in.  I only whip the shaftment just below the knock as a belkt belt and braces approach, in case the shaft splits. Which incidently has only happened on pine arrows but not on Hazel or yellow poplar (tulipwood).

icindentally, in the "great warbow" by Strickland/Hardy, there's a picture and description of the Westminster arrow.  It says the knock reinforcement was inserted across the grain. A personal friend who saw many years ago (memory has faded) says it's difficult to tell which way the knock was cut as it's made from poplar and as it was found on the roof of the abbey, it's gone black.
I intend to make an arrow with the reinforcemnt as described in the book to test if it works any better.

[youngbowyer]

opps, sorry there fellas. i forget how precisly you need to say things on these boards. 

I like them that way for my personall arrows because they are quick and easy to do. I shoot a LOT and loose a LOT of arrows so do not spend much time on my personall arrows. thats not including all the arrows I loose at expos and shows when people try and shoot them at shows.  I sell these, I make these for US warbow entusiasts and when i do I make them consistant. I did mention that already.

Often I find myself regretting even posting on these boards as It seems that people just love to find something wrong with what you are doing and feel the need to coment. 

I will remove my photos as to not offend your superior tastes by looking at my "field" bang around arrows. So sorry for troubling you fellas with my shoody craftsmanship.

Steve

I do not want you to remove the pics and i do not like finding other people's mistakes. I was just trying to help you.

Tom.

[Purbeck]

Hello All.

My first post on here: some photos of 2 sets of arrows I have finally(!) finished. Standard Arrows and Livery/Mary Rose arrows.













Comments/questions welcome
Purbeck

[Purbeck]

Descriptions dind't copy over! So:

1st 6 photos are EWBS Livery/Mary Rose Arrows (80 odd g). 31 1/2" ash shafts tapered 1/2" to 3/8", 7 1/2" x 3/4" turkey feathers bound with red silk.
Heads are Hector Cole Chippenham Type 1 Broadhead and John Marshall Tudor Bodkin

2nd 4 photos Standard Arrows (52g). 31 1/2" poplar shafts 3/8" parrallel, 6" by 3/4" turkey feathers, right angle cut, bound with red silk.
Heads are Hector Cole 3/8" Heavy War Bodkins with a 1/2" version of the same alongside from the Livery arrow set for comparision

Purbeck

[youngbowyer]

Impressive arrows Like the horn inserts as well as the binding. Did you have to polish the heads up yourself or did hector do it for you.

[Purbeck]

YB - the heads came like that from HC.

I am now looking around for some very heavy bodkins and shafts to make some of the EWBS Quarter Pounder arrows!

Purbeck

[youngbowyer]

Try a heavy quarel head for that. Maybe contact John Marshall. What poundage bow do you shoot?

[triton]

I am now looking around for some very heavy bodkins and shafts to make some of the EWBS Quarter Pounder arrows!

Purbeck

I have to change the head on mine as it's 10g light but I made one from American black walnut.  nice and heavy  . Ash should come up to weight easy enough

[Purbeck]

YB - have contacted JM and others. 109 lb @30" laminate warbow at the moment
Triton - thanks, am trying to find ash parallel shafts but not finding it easy! American Walnut wood sounds good (got a pic?)

Purbeck

[triton]

not such a good picture, doesn't really do the wood or the finish justice but there's a pic of a couple of my arrows on page 1 of this topic.
If you're going to the Staunton Harold Finsbury mark 8th March, I can bring a shaft for you.