R/D and Silk Backing on Board Bow?

[Canoe]

Howdy Group,

I'm working on, yet another, Red Oak Board Bow.
It's a Comstock-sort of bow; wide limbs (1-7/8") for the first 2/3rds of the limbs, and with a stiff, glued-on handle, about 70" NtoN.  I'm going for about 50#@29-1/2".  (It's for a friend who is rather tall.) 

So,... 
1.) Is it a good idea, or...  Is there a physical advantage to putting an R/D curve into this type of bow?  (I'd be using a heat gun once I get to the tiller stage.)  Or, at what point should I try to heat-bend some curves into this bow?
 
I tried heat bending a differant bow yesterday.  It was a bow I had set aside in the corner - too low a poundage.  But, I thought it would be a good one to try something new on.  The curves took pretty well - they look good.

2.) On that same bow, the long one, I'm thinking about backing it with some silk.  Is this a good idea?  If so, do I put the silk on after tillering, after tillering and staining?  Or, do I back it just before I'm done tillering, and before staining?
And,...  is silk backing usually shiny?  The silk I have it really shiny, will be like that way after gluing?

Please,...

Your comments, suggestions, and advise are much appreciated,
Canoe

[George Tsoukalas]

I usually back after long string tillering and before the stave's first stringing.  I'm thinking your dimensions are a bit short for that draw with a stiff handled design.You are gong to need the perfect board.  Jawge.

[snedeker]

I'm thinking that your wide-limbed, long design would be better as a straight bow rather than r/d.    I agree with george about timing of the silk backing.  I would heat temper the belly and induce some reflex before right before backing if it were me.  You can alter the appearance of the silt with some paint so it doesn't really matter too much about the shinyness.  The draw is long, but so is a 70" bow so I think you're ok, especially with the silk.

Dave