Shoot arrow length and spine adjustments?

[D. Tiller]

I was thinking if my draw length is 27" I should start with arrows 30 or more inches long and start lopping off an inch at a time to spine them correctly for the bow I'm shooting. So shoot the arrow, lop off an inch if it does not shoot to target, then shoot again and repeat the process untill it shoots right. Would this work?

David T.

[Pat B]

It will work but you will have to fit the point on each time you lop it off.  A 30" shaft for your draw length is a good place to start. Do you have a spine tester? If so, find a shoot that spines 20# over your draw weight to start with. Spine 4 sides of the shoot and put the stiffest side against the bow. If the     finished arrow doesn't fly right later, flip it over and try again. There is a good chance it will fly well.    The natural taper will reduce the spine by 10# and 2" over 28"= reduce by another 10#. If these are too stiff sand the mid section and try again.   I generally don't try to "fine tune" shoot or cane arrows. If they shoot well I use them for 3D and the ones that shoot best are hunting arrows. The squirrelly ones go for flu flus.   Pat

[D. Tiller]

Thanks Pat! I'm planning on making up some soon. After I finnish the next three bows I may have some spare time when the rain sets in and I cant work outdoors anymore.

David T

[JackCrafty]

I would lop off the nock end each time, in 1/2" increments and use self nocks..  Flip the arrow over to see which side shoots best before you finish the arrow....that's what I do.

With shoot arrows, you'll need to make sure the shafts are not oval in cross section....sand them carefully and make sure they are as round as possible.  An oval cross section is common with shoots and will affect the arrow spine.

Also, it's a challenge to make a matched set of 6 (or more) arrows from shoots.  My only advice here is take your time and use the heck out of your scale and spine tester.

[D. Tiller]

I take it you tie your fletching on when testing to see if they shoot well? Just untie the fletch and move it forward?

[JackCrafty]

Good point.  No, I don't tie the fletching....I don't fletch the arrows at all when flight testing.  I use the "bare shaft shooting at close-range target" method.

[D. Tiller]

How close do you stand to the target then?

[JackCrafty]

About 10-15 feet.

[D. Tiller]

I will definatly give it a try! Should save on a lot of feathers too.

[markinengland]

Personally I like over long arrows. An extra six inches of shaft won't weigh a lot and I have found that the longer the shaft the less spine critical it seems. I have shot some very different weight/spine/diameter hazel shafts with weight forward due to hardwood fottings and had quite good results.
Nothing to stop you setting a length a long as you dare.
Many primitive peoples have used very long arrows and in my opinion it is because they work.
Mark in England

[JackCrafty]

I agree...long arrows work very well.  My kids prefer them too.

[D. Tiller]

I'll give that a try too! Do any of you weigh your arrows and try to get them as close to the same weight as possible?

David T

[Pat B]

I weigh all arrows I make and use that to match them somewhat. I'm generally looking for finished arrows to be between 500gr and 650gr for a finished arrow.  Pat

[D. Tiller]

So, Pat, a 150 grain weight difference is OK?

[JackCrafty]

For me, weight is more important than spine.  I try to get the weights as close as possible.  A 20 grain difference, or less, is about right (for me).