Apple limb bow question

[Lost Oki]

Info:  limb is 55" long, has an arc tip to tip, back of bow on inside of arc.  In attached picture, the lower limb has a right cure and the upper limb a slight right curve. 

Note chalk line that runs center to center on the limbs, string is close to edge on lower limb.  If I straighten the lower limb (steam) it should move chalk line toward center but probable not all the way, is this an issue?   

I am thinking I should straighten limb before I start taper to nock.  Any feedback or direction is welcomed, This is all new to me.

[Aaron1726]

I do not have your answers because I am a newby as well, but I will be following to see how it goes.  Wishing you the best of luck, looks like you have a good start to it.

[Pat B]

How thick is the stave now? I think I would get the bow to floor tiller stage then it will be thin enough to heat bend easily. You could actually tiller the bow as it is. That's one of the nice things about a selfbow, you can get away with crooks and humps and still have a good shooting bow.

[M2A]

Like Pat said.

If your tips and handle area all line up, no need to straighten. It might make things a bit more challenging. However the less material the easier it is to make heat corrections. If it was my piece and I wanted to make corrections I'd floor tiller like Pat suggested, taper to tips but leave an inch or so wide at tips, make my corrections, then narrow the tips to better line the string up to where i want(usually after tillering to a low brace height). TBH looks like there is more going on with that piece than I can tell from the pic, maybe some twist. A stiff handle bow with 55" of lenght will be difficult task if you plan on drawing past 23", for me anyway. But I understand, how you work with what you can get. been there, done that. Good luck, keep posting pics and questions.
Mike       

[Lost Oki]

Heat treat question:  Limb was cut approx 6 weeks ago, ends sealed bark left on.  Approx 3 weeks later limbs were rough cut in with saw, ends sealed (paraffin).  2 days later bark was removed, ends sealed, back not.  Each time, limb was stored under house with 55-60% humidity.  Is this bow still considered green and I should use steam ?  OR?

M2A, yes there is a some twist on the limb that needs straightened. 
This Limb has a curve to it, see pics  bow is belly up.

[Gordon]

As long as the string bisects the center of the handle there is no need to make any corrections.

[Lost Oki]

Another question from the inexperienced.  Apple wood does not seem to be friendly to a draw knife, I keep knocking chunks out of the belly as I reduce thickness of limbs.  I tried a small hand plane with the same results (see pic).  My thought is to just use a rasp.  Any other suggestions?

Second Questions.  Doing an inspection of the back of the bow I found 2 areas of concern. chunk missing around a old limb knot, see pic.  A 2nd chunk missing at another knot. Its approx 4 inches long, 1/8 inch wide an a 1/16 deep.  Do I try and take it down to the next growth ring or can I fill it with something?  see pic

[Hamish]

Hard to tell from the photo of the back. It doesn't look like a tear on the back, but a natural furrow, lower than the surrounding area???

For tear out, on the belly, you can get a little chinese style wooden planes, that have a 60 degree blade bedding, rather than the standard 45 degree. The higher angle will eliminate  tearout. They also double as 90 degree scraper planes when you flip the bevel opposite side. They are quite affordable tools, and work well for bowmaking, and many other woodworking tasks.

 Shungee-Rosewood Mini Polishing Plane
      
   


In the mean time a rasp and cabinet scraper will get you to where you want to go

[Lost Oki]

Thanks Hamish.  I decided to work on belly first.  Using draw knife as scrapper to thin limbs to get to initial tillering.   Scrapper is working great, spot on belly is gone.
I will look for the Chinese wood plane. 
Back; its definitely a tear.  double checked its 3 inches long, 3/16 wide at knot and 1/16" deep.    I will try to get a better picture tomorrow.
Pics, I updated current pics.

[scp]

I would work on the back first. I just don't like the look of the tear. I might even consider making a backward bow, turning the back into a belly, without any stiff handle.

[Lost Oki]

I am new at this, can you take off part of the back down to the next ring leaving the sides of the bow the original outside ring?

[scp]

Turning a problematic stave into a nice board is another option. It might even shoot better.

[Lost Oki]

I sat back and looked at the stave.  Decided to take the back down to the next ring.  I have over half the stave shaved down using my draw knife as a scraper.  Still have a thin layer to finish up but its spotty.  Tears or gouges are gone, knots are more noticeable.  Next step would be to try and take some of the light twist and curve out on one end. 

[Hamish]

 The new photo's really show that gouge well. You made the right decision taking the growth ring down, it looks really good, now.

[Lost Oki]

Removal of top growth ring is mostly complete, still have a lot of spots with a very thin layer.  I think most of this will come off with final sanding. 

Laid out bow showing center line.  Have issues with far end, thinking I need to straighten some of the curve. 

Put bow on tiller rack, first no tension, then slowly working it to 5 inches (2nd pic) then 9 inches of draw.  At 9 inches its at 30 lbs and right limb has a little more flex than left.  More work required on tillering and weight.  Shooting for 40 lbs at 28".  53" n to n