Glue creep?

[Badger]

Justin, I went back and looked and it does appear that the riser should be pretty rigid. I normally like my riser to be at least 30% thicker than where it starts into the fade and his appears more than that. I wonder if the shelf cut in might be allowing some flex. More than once I have tillered out bows and then cut in my shelf, then the handle popped or did what apex's did.

[Apex Predator]

I've really enjoyed the discussion folks.  There is so much to learn from you guys with bunches of bows under your belts.

[Justin Snyder]

Steve, that was all I could figure. Justin

[Far East Archer]

Yeah, I would agree with others about your bow bending into the fades.
However, Titebond does creep, I have noticed this with my raw boo belly bows.
I would always have problems with the fades sliding up and popping off.
It works excellent on other things such as backings and handles though,
I just think I will not use for fade glue ups, especially in my climate.

I just started using urac and I find it great to work with but it is more tedious to prepare...
Nonetheless, both glues works very good, just some are suited for different circumstances.

Alex

[mullet]

  I've had the same problem with TB3,glueing horn overlays.

[Rich Saffold]

Eddie, Superglue is for overlays   let them dry for at least a half hour before working on them...

Rich-Loctite in the .18oz container

[Marc St Louis]

Marc, I always put one in too. This is why I am so confused on this. Look at the second picture.  He clearly has a fairly thick power lam in that bow.  That is why I cant imagine it bending. Justin

I still suspect flexing Justin

[DirtyDan]

Try a thin veneer layer of something like maple in between the ipe layers.  Sometimes that really seems to help the creep problem.  I think that the veneer both hides the glue line and helps to buffer the rigidity of some of the harder woods.

Dan