When to chase a ring

[Muskyman]

Okay so I was looking at this Osage stave. It’s probably only 2 inches max at it’s thickest point. I started laying out a flat bow on it. One inch at the handle fading out to about 1& 3/4 out to mid limb then tapering down to 1/2 at the nock. Then I started thinking I would need to chase a ring first. Is that right or could I take it down to the bow shape before I do that ?
Then I started thinking it gotta have way to high of a moisture content. Got my meter out and checked it and it said about 8-81/2 percent. Thought my meter must be wrong so I checked a stave I traded for that’s over a year old and it registered at about 10 percent. It’s hickory. So I checked the Osage a couple places and it always came back under 10 percent. Bow would be 72 inches tip to tip..
I cut the Osage in late September. Think it’s really that dry or not.

[George Tsoukalas]

I chase the ring first. I guess either way is fine. I like osage 8-10% MC. Jawge

[bentstick54]

 I like to chase a ring 1st also, sometimes it will reveal a knot or wiggle in the grain that doesn’t show in the outside ring that could be a problem.

[bjrogg]

Chase the ring you want or maybe the one above it.

Sometimes I will leave ring above until I have steamed in my recurves.

Then I can chase a ring to get a nice clean back.

Wouldn’t suggest doing that unless you are confident in your ring chasing skills though.

You don’t want to lay out your bow and then mess up chasing a ring and get to where you are now to narrow.

When you have your ring chased. You know how much wood you have to work with

Bjrogg

[Muskyman]

Okay thanks. I’m going to try and chase a ring on the stave then lay the bow out on the ring I hopefully get chased. Rings are funny on the stave in that they are thicker on one side then the other..
not very big on either end. Probably is 1/8 or so on the bigger side and thin down to a 1/16 on the other end. I’m going put the best picture I have on here but the other end is probably even thinner   
Just got to try and see what happens. The opposite end is probably 1/2 inch thick so I don’t really have much room for error.

[Muskyman]

Opposite end

[superdav95]

MuskyMan.  Those are tight rings in the middle.  I do like others have said and chase the ring first above the one your chasing then get the scrapers out for the rest.  Especially on tight rings.  As for that hickory it’s the same with all of my seasoned staves here also at around 10% mc.  That’s common for hickory.  Once you heat treat that you’ll be around 7 or less depending on your climate.  I’ve never had any go above 7 after heat treatment.  You could still make a very nice bow with that piece of Osage.  Just glue up a section for your hand and fades from scrap Osage you have.  Best of luck pal. 

Dave

[M2A]

I doubt you stave is at 10% MC after 3-4 weeks unless you are keeping it in a drying box. Regardless, chase a ring(seal the back again), rough it out, then weigh it. Wait a week and weigh it again, keep doing so until it stops losing weight for a week or 2. Then you can be pretty sure that you are in good shape to continue to till the bow, a thick handle area will still be high in moisture but the working limbs will be fine. My best guess would be if you rough it out today you would be at least 6 weeks out from tillering, unless you use a drying box. Good luck on the build.
Mike

[Muskyman]

They are really thin Dave , I’ve been looking at it and am probably going to shoot for for the third ring down. One reason is that there might already be a violation of one or two of the top couple from when I took the bark and sapwood off. Whatever I do I’m going to go slow. I did get a set of scrapers that has the curved one and a goose neck one a week or two ago to help with some of the contours in these Osage staves.. If I can’t get a good ring chased I’m guessing I can back it with something. Also got this guy to play with if I have to wait till I can get another Piece of Osage that has better rings

That’s what I was really thinking when I started this post M2A. The stave is something I split the bottom off another piece and it laid out in the sun for a couple weeks before I grabbed it off the scrap pile and decided to put it in my shed.

[George Tsoukalas]

My meter gives surface readings only. I  check right down to the stave's first stringing to get around that. Gives a truer reading.

Muskyman, those rings are tiny.
You might consider removing the sapwood and going with the next ring down.

Jawge

[Muskyman]

Well I got to within 16 inches of the end and truly thought I was going to make it but when I took the bark and sapwood of this thing originally I had shaved a spot one ring below where I was coming from on the other end..
Yes they are Jawge.  If I was to put rawhide on it would that work? Just go around my bad spot an keep working the ring I been chasing?
Here’s a picture of my tiny rings

[George Tsoukalas]

More than once I went up and down a few times until I got 1 clean ring of which there is no substitute for me. I'm tough on myself. Jawge

[Muskyman]

I guess I could try that Jawge. If nothing else it’s good practice for when I break out a good piece of Osage.. How about just chasing it back to the handle section if I put a thicker piece there to make a handle with..

[George Tsoukalas]

Muskyman, I've never done that but that's ok as long as the handle is bending. One continuous ring for each limb may be different.

[bassman211]

Most of my Osage bows are thin to very thin ringed bows. I rough the backs ,and sinew back them. No more spending to much time trying to chase a next to impossible ring,and sinew backed Osage can make a very good bow.