English long bow rules.

[Allyn T]

If I wanted to make an elb what criteria do I have to follow? I know it's 5/8 thickness/width minimum but I just read that the top limb is longer, does it have to be? This would be a hunting weight bow not a warbow.

[Del the cat]

Most of the rules are nonsense and there are slight variation between different societies.
There is no rule about where the grip is... it's normally fairly central with arrow pass 1" above centre, but there is no specific rule. Some societies insist on horn nocks, but they don't even understand the difference between horn and antler
The 5/8 rule isn't really a problem as they usually come out well within that limit.
Don't worry about rounding the belly too much, It doesn't need to be semicircular in cross section.
Generally it should be one single curve when braced (e.g. No obvious recurve)
Del

[Pat B]

I think Del summed it up quite well and that's coming right from the cat's meouth. 

[Allyn T]

Awesome thanks Del : )

[Del the cat]

oooh, one other thing.
No part of the bow should be wider than the grip/arrow pass. e.g no cutaway for the arrow.
But again that is slightly daft, as if a natural stave has a big knot then the limb may need to be wider ther and could feasibly be wider than the grip/arrowpass.
The problem is the rules weren't written by bowyers.
I mean... if a stave has natural reflex etc... it would be allowed... but can they really tel the difference between steamed in and natural?
Del

[bownarra]

Make sure you tiller it elliptically or else handshock awaits Get it right and the bow will be quiet and very nice to shoot. Tiller is key.
If you use a gizmo, make the bend increase as you progress along the limbs. Virtually no bend in the handle.
My width profile for ipe bellied elb's is as follows - 1" wide through the grip (grip 4", 1" above center 3" below) and 4" either side. From there taper into 3/4" wide 8" from the nocks, from there taper to 3/8" at the nocks. This works for bows in the 45 - 80# range. That sort of a taper will work well. Adjust widths for different woods.

[Weylin]

Here are the rules to making an English Longbow

Step 1: make an English Longbow
Step 2: WRONG!
Step 3: Get bashed by experts on the internet
Step 4: Shoot your bow and enjoy it

[Allyn T]

Here are the rules to making an English Longbow

Step 1: make an English Longbow
Step 2: WRONG!
Step 3: Get bashed by experts on the internet
Step 4: Shoot your bow and enjoy it

Lol I think I can follow those rules. Bownarrra thanks for the starter dimensions

[Badger]

   I thought bownarrow gave you sound advice. Especially on the tiller. A circular tiller on those longbows can have horrible shock. The 5/8 rule we have to adhere to in flight shooting.

[Del the cat]

Personally I don't know where all the "circular tiller gives you hand shock comes from"
Maybe what I call arc of a circle tiller isn't what others call circular.
The only hand shock I've ever had from a longbow was from a heavy hazel warbow that was very wide in the grip and an uncomfortable shape which sat poorly on the knuckles. I have made quite a few 
Maybe what follows is one explanation for hand shock?
I have seen suggested layouts like this:-
a) Straight grip section (say 6") and then taper the thickness from there.
That is so wrong on many levels, as it is actually making the grip weak!
b) Thickest part is actually at the centre,  tapering from there.
That makes the grip stiffer than in "a".
c) Lower weight bows often have the grip thicker for comfort, often achieved by gluing a short riser section, this obviously gives a stiffer grip, gives a more elliptical look (regardless of the actual curve on the limbs) and help stop any hand shock.
Del

[Allyn T]

a) Straight grip section (say 6") and then taper the thickness from there.
That is so wrong on many levels, as it is actually making the grip weak!
b) Thickest part is actually at the centre,  tapering from there.
That makes the grip stiffer than in "a".

Del

Del I don't quite understand what you are saying here. Also do you wait to add horn nocks till after you have it tillered somewhat?

[Del the cat]

I've done a sketch that hopefully shows what I mean... It shows the thickness taper at the grip (exagerated), you can see, when it is tapered from the centre there is more thickness in the grip (shaded area) compared with when the taper starts at the ends of the grip.
Regarding horn nocks, leave it until the bow is braced and drawing say 20". Before that it's best to keep the outers a bit wide, so that any sideways adjustment of string line can be done to avoid the bow trying to bend sideways, which longbows can tend to do. That's also a good reason to keep the limb cross section rather rectangular until the bow if flexing nicely, rounding the edges where belly meets side can be useful for counteracting sideways bend.
Hope that makes sense
Del

[Allyn T]

Ah I understand now, thank you del

[bassman211]

I made a 70 inch  Elm long bow that I even fire hardened. Still has 1 inch string follow. Flat back with rounded belly but the riser has 3 inch fades, and an arrow shelf cut in to it. Hybrid I guess , but is fun to shoot at 45 lbs of draw. Just can't get myself to shoot off of my knuckle, so I still haven't built a true ELB to date.

[Dances with squirrels]

Del, I've always believed the same... stopping the thickness taper to create an area mid bow that's all the same thickness makes it weaker, not stronger. If you want to make it stronger there, increase the taper rate, don't eliminate it.