First time bow layout questions

[Bendry]

I am looking to build my first bow of many, starting with this 76" long piece of naturally reflexed ash. I have got it to the point where I want to cut it down to a 2" wide blank for me to start planning my shape from and am wondering about the best way to proceed.
It seems to me that I have two options. I hope the images can convey my thoughts, I'm not sure I will make total sense in explaining them.
I can either use the edge that split out of the log, I assume that is on the grain line, and accept maximum twist. Or I can lay it out on a slight diagonal, and make up for some of the twist.
Writing this out makes me think that the slight diagonal is a bad idea and I might have answered my own question. I guess I have to start my posting somewhere.

[RyanY]

I’d follow the edges as long as the tips line up with the handle. That jig in the middle is kind of weird for a right handed shooter but would work well for a lefty.

[Bendry]

Ok Ryan, thanks for the confirmation. We'll see where this takes me. I keep dithering about choosing a stave but really I just have to get rolling on one.

[Eric Krewson]

As a newbie you probably can't do what I would do. I would take the twist out, straighten out the kink, cut the stave at the bend, splice the current facing tip as the handle and lay out the bow perfectly straight.

[Bendry]

Jeez Eric, that makes it sound like a total mess. I guess I'll just have to give it a whirl and see what comes out. There is lots more potential bow wood here for later more experienced projects.
I am going to try to heat and bend the twist out tho.

[bownarra]

The split edge should be good to follow but your best bet is to follow the crown of the stave. Eyeball it enough and you will  see the fiber path down the stave.
Don't worry about the none straightness! Draw your centerline. Mark out 1" either side and then reduce your blank down to these lines.
Then post more pics.

[Don W]

It's going to be interesting. It'll be a learning experience for a lot of us.

[scp]

I would start with a dead straight Hickory board. But if you must use that stave, just do what Bownarra said. Do not force your preconceptions on the stave. Let the stave tell you what it can do to become a bow.

[George Tsoukalas]

That's a tough stave for your first or your 50th. LOL.
Straight grained red oak boards is a good start.
My site may help you.
But follow that grain that goes tip to tip.
like this....
http://traditionalarchery101.com/layout.html
There are other things on my site too.

Jawge

[Bendry]

Thanks everyone! I feel like I'm going to do this as well as I can, but now I'm not worried about it not working anymore.
Jawge, I was already on your site and I'm hoping that I can just the jug and wrench method to deal with some twist.
I'm going to get it down to 2 inches today at least so I will throw up some more photos tonight. I have a tendency to want to learn on the hardest projects possible. It often ends in a failure if a learning experience.

[Bendry]

Got it down to two inches. The twist is serious but I'm hoping I can deal with it. The grain seems to be running nice and straight tho so that's nice

[George Tsoukalas]

Go ahead if you want. I think we are just trying to get a bow in your hands asap. Jawge

[Del the cat]

The twist is "slight" not "serious". that amount can be ignored , or easily removed with some steaming along the whole limb and a bit or torque
Del

[Bendry]

Thanks Del, I'll give it a try.

[Woody roberts]

I’ve had pretty good luck by following the grain. Before finishing the handle I shoot it a few times to determine which limb is the top. I’ve made a couple like yours that came out very near center shot. They shoot a wide variety of arrows very well.