Best time for belly splits

[Piddler]

Hamish,
Do you prefer the 1/4" or the 1/2" other than the 1/2" being harder to start a split.
Piddler

[Hamish]

I haven't even used the 1/4" one yet, I dug it out yesterday to check the bevel angle. It was still in its original cardboard sheath. The 1/2" one is a brute of a tool, quite roughly made. Hard to start the split, especially in dry wood, and awkward to use because of how thick it is.

I suspect the 1/4" froe will be much easier to start a split, and more maneuverable during the split. Its German made and heat treated.

Although I have never used a Lie Nielsen froe, it gets a pretty good review from green woodworkers. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2012/07/19/the-new-lie-nielsen-froe-designed-by-drew-langsner/
They do however select dead straight oak, split radially, usually in billet length sections, rather than character laden osage, of full stave length.

[Eric Krewson]

I have used a mattock to do belly splits, I start the split with screwdrivers driven around the selected end grain, open it up enough to get a wood wedge or two started, insert the flat mattock blade and use the handle for leverage.

Most of the time I just use steel wedges if the wood splits cleanly and easily. When I cut billet splices I save the pie shapes pieces to use for splitting later.

[HH~]

Here's a billet, one large one 40" long. Was belly split after a year. So it was dry not seasoned. I would have prefered it to grab one ring and stayed in it but it jumped half a Big ring being dry. If it were green I could have popped it right down one ring.

Some folks gonna see this one real soon.

HH~

[Hamish]

Here's a videothat shows how to use a steer a froe, what to do if the split goes awry.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGhSyUD64dQ&t=667s

Froe work is between 5min in to about 12mins. He's splitting straight grained ash, for basket weaving. Peter Follansbee is a seriously skilled green woodworker.

[Piddler]

Thanks fellas,
He for sure knows what he is doing in the video. Gonna have to get a froe and try some day. Until then gonna try and kerf one down the growth ring with my cut off saw and see what happens. These staves are just shy of a year old. I have a couple that probably have three bows in them if done correctly. Gonna try a not so good one first but without a knot. Tried one with a knot and it didn't work out at all. Here's to trying.
Piddler

[Eric Krewson]

Here is a froe that was made from a car leaf spring that I restored. I haven't used it on osage, my osage cutting days are over so it is now a shop wall ornament.

[HH~]

Belly split step sistah’s Glued up.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,68906.135.html

HH~

[Piddler]

HH and Eric,
Dou you guys have the pattern or measurements  (L and W) for the splice. Got a couple billets that I will have to do that with one day
Piddler

[HH~]

I like my billets about 38" to start and width be same as any selfbow stave. The thicker in depth gives you room to grab the ring you want. I been doing 3" splice lately and I like to back the splice with a grip. You dont have to do this if the splits are thick in depth. I just do it because it gives and added glue line on the belly side of finger joint.
I like making billets bows almost better than a one piece. Just easier to find cleaner wood in shorter lengths. Not to say a good clean 70" chunk is not great but two 35" pieces or one fat one at 35" belly split for two is just as good maybe better.

Hedge~

[Allyn T]

Hedge, do you ever glue them up with set-back in the handle?

[HH~]

If they are deep enough.

That set in pics here and in Huntin with Hedge, that billet length fat piece had a curve up on one side, I just butted the two more flat ends together glued and ended up with a flipped tip 69" stave. Now, they are step sister billets ( they come from on top of each other) not sister billets that come off tree side by side in same year growths. These were pancaked on top of each other and "Belly Split". So, each side has same blemishes and one small pin in same exact places on each limb. Bookends so to speak.

HH~

[Piddler]

HH thanks for info on the 3" splice length. How wide are they at the top or widest part. Looks like you have two V's in the photo.
Piddler

[HH~]

I use Gary Davis templete's. You can do splices many ways. All will hold if you use *good glue*. Glues are all different. Know what your using and how wood must be prepped. There are books on how to draw out joints and splice in wood working. The splice just has fit the size of material your using. If you not backing it you must have enough wood in grip area to make a solid joint. Gary use to take his two billets down almost to bow size before he jointed them. I like to pare bilet down a little and then glue up. Anyway that works is OK. Never had a billet bow go in a joint, ever. They more likely stonger in grip thatn a sold stave handle.

HH~

[HH~]

these splits lookin like a stave now. I remember Gary telling me lots of his "bows were billets, buyers never even could see they were billets. He did not prefer staves over billets at all and he liked doing them". I really like doing them gives more time with the Hedge.

HH~