two fletch question

[TimBo]

For those of you who make two fletch arrows, do you fold over a bit of the feather on the nock end (starting the feather backwards), or just wrap both ends like three fletch?  I have always done the latter, but decided to try folding it over for one yesterday.  It did seem very secure, but getting the sinew worked around everything was driving me crazy...I ended up just redoing it the way I usually do.  If you like the foldover style, I would love to hear about your process.  I'm sure there is some smart/efficient way to do it that I am overlooking.  I am also wondering if there is any advantage to folding the feather over. 

[TimBo]

Actually I just thought to look up the JackCrafty buildalong on Eastern two-fletch, and he does the foldover.  He coats the shaft with glue first...ah ha!  That would make it way easier to deal with.  My last question still stands though - can anyone think of an advantage to the foldover?  It leaves the end of the shaft between the fletching and nock clean, but I wrap that anyway for safety.

[Hawkdancer]

Haven't tried the fold over yet!  I just wrap the ends as smooth as I can, also try to have a smooth taper before wrapping.
Hawkdancer

[Buck67]

I normally do the 2 fletch with foldover when I'm replicating Native American designs.  I do them with sinew and hot hide glue.  It takes some practice but it's not all that difficult.  The trick is to wrap the string once or twice so it holds good before fastening the first feather.

The advantage in the fold over system is that you don't need expensive jigs to hold the feathers in place while the glue dries.

BTW, I do a lot of 2-fletch using fletching tape that I get from 3-Rivers.  It is a 1/16" wide double sided tape, just put the tape on the feather and then stick the feather to the shaft.  Again big advantage is that you don't need expensive jigs.

[TimBo]

I never thought of using fletching tape on two fletch for some reason, but that would make things easier.  When I do two fletch, I figure out where the front of the feather will lie - usually top and bottom of the shaft - wrap with sinew, and let it dry before messing with the back.  I leave the feather/spine long on the back so I can adjust the feathers after wrapping, but before the sinew dries.  I will try using some hide glue next time I try the foldover.  Thanks!

[Pat B]

I've done the fold over method but prefer just tie down the back first, wrap the front leaving a bit of quill long enough to pull out the slack then cut it off and continue the wrap. I like sinew for the wrap because it shrinks as it dries. This is for a Eastern Woodland style 2 fletch. I also do similar with a 3 or 4 feather tangential fletching using smaller full feathers like 4" long full feather.
With both of these styles if you place the feather back side to the shaft the feather seem to lay flatter.
I've also used fletch tape to hold the center of the fletch to keep it from flapping in flight.

[Buck67]

If I am going to do a two-fletch with fletching tape, I usually make sure the feather is lined up at the nock first.  I can add what twist I want at the front of the fletching as I finish adhering the feather.  I think it is more important for the fletching to be in line with the nock when it is shot from the bow.

[TimBo]

I agree that lining it up with the nock is more important that the front.  I lay the fletching on first to figure out where the front needs to be to line up with the nock.  For me, the front tends to be on top, and the rear on the side of the nock.  That way the fletching leans away from my face, and the bottom leans away from the bow.  I still like tying on the front first though!

[aznboi3644]

Just finished a quick cheap stumping set tonight.  I do 90 degrees of twist.  I’ve folded over the nock end and usually do but decided to do a straight wrap on tonight.  Used urethane glue for the thread and nock end and a dab of super glue to hold the leading edge so I can wrap it.

[Hawkdancer]

Nice!  I like the blue wrap!
Hawkdancer

[TimBo]

Ditto - those look great!  Almost too pretty to whack stumps with...

[aznboi3644]

Thank you.  I also prefer the leading edge lining up with the nock so it doesn’t drag against the side of the bow.  I’m lazy so fletching two feathers is cake.

[JackCrafty]

When I do the fold over, the feathers need to be wet. This allows the vanes to be pushed back against the grain, so to speak, when you are tying down the end of the feathers. The wet feather also bends without cracking... very important.

The advantage of the "fold over" is the fact that you can pull the feather very tight when you are tying down the front part. This keeps the fletch close to the shaft. All the two-fletch feathers that I've seen on actual artifacts are never glued down to the shaft between the wrappings.

You need to let the sinew dry a bit before folding it over and pulling everything tight, though. Maybe 3 to 5 minutes. This allows the glue to "gel" and hold the sinew fast. If you need to wait a long time, because the sinew is taking forever to set, you might need to smear a little water on the part of the feather that is folding. This prevents cracking. Most feathers are pretty flexible, so this is not usually a problem.

[JackCrafty]

These fletchings are "full quill". That means the only modification to the quill is a flattening of the front part so it will lay better on the shaft. I just crushed down the front of the quill between an antler tine and a flat piece of wood.

There is still a pretty good gap between the fletching and the shaft, but pulling the fletch really tight make a big difference. It would be hard to overcome the natural curve of the quill if I couldn't pull it tight... and there would be a much bigger gap.

[TimBo]

Thank you sir!  I will try a few more with the fold down before I throw in the towel.