started 1st static

[catfishon]

i raised small splinters on both ends but have the ends pretty thick .  should i scrape out the splinters ?  or super glue them down ?   and no, i don't know what im doing....lol

 

[Pat B]

I would lay the super glue to it. You could  scrape the splintered area, after the super glue has dried to see how deep the splinters go but leave as much meat around the hooks, sides, back and belly for later adjustment and string alignment. If necessary you could add more wood to support the curves.
   What are the dimensions of the bow and what draw length and weight are you shooting for?  Looking forward to seeing your progress.      Pat

[El Destructo]

      You could always make Brush Nocks for it....and cover this all up....it's a Thought....and they look really cool too!!!

[attachment deleted by admin]

[catfishon]

brush nocks is what im wanting to make, this bow is a teacher bow (teach me what not to do)
 i really started 2 bows today...lol  just incase one didn't make it maybe i'll go ahead and try to make the brush nocks with this one ? should i still super glue and scrape 1st ?
heres a pic of the other one i started today also
both bows are 64" tip to tip and i'll take any # between 50 & 60
the one with static ends was a thin stave and will need a handle glued on it or maybe built up with leather

[Pat B]

Yes!  super glue! You will have to flatten the area you want to add the brush nocks so you want it solid to work with.   Pat

[El Destructo]

                                                                    What Pat Says

                                                                             

[Pat B]

Looks like you have plenty of arrow material in that first pic. What is it, Privet?   Pat

[Marc St Louis]

Looks like you used dry heat to bend those curves, not a good idea.  Use wet heat for sharp bends

[catfishon]

pat the bush is hazel nut or something like that? it gets small nuts on it that are wraped in leaves. the shoots are nice and straight but but real soft in the centers ,dont think it would make an arrow? but maybe i'll cut some and see
mark, i did use dry heat. had alot of guys say thats all they ever use? i had to straiten the bow right in the handle area and was thinking steam might have been easier also ?
do you have to wait long for the stave to dry back out if you steam ?
 thanks for the help guys........................john f

[Pat B]

If you are gonna use steam on dry wood, seal the area to be steamed first with shellac. The steam won't effect the shellac and the shellac will prevent moisture from entering the wood.
  On the recurves I've made I used dry heat but oiled the wood first. I clamp the tip in the form, coat liberally with oil and heat the area until until the weight of the stave begins to pull the stave down. Then I know it is hot enough. I still get some splintering but usually have enough wood in the area to be bent to remove the splintered area. Pat

[Wasichu]

Could someone explain dry heat vs wet heat?  a static bow has always been intresting.


                                                                                 peace

[Pat B]

Wet heat is either done by boiling or steaming. The moisture lubricates the wood and keeps the wood from scorching. Dry heat is done with direct heat from a source like a heat gun, stove burner or open flame. I prefer dry heat but(less complicated and less time consuming for me) oil the wood first to prevent scorching and to help concentrate and hold the heat while bending, straightening and untwisting wood.
  A general rule of thumb is wet heat for wet wood, dry heat for dry wood. With steaming or boiling you are adding moisture to the already dried wood and this can cause drying checks(cracks) as the wood re-dries. Shellac can be used as a moisture barrier on wet or dry wood when steaming or boiling.           Pat   

[burn em up chuck]

hi evldwrf here,
  it looks like the wood thats pulled is in a nonbending section. so as you continue to shape the bow that growth ring will recede toward the handle eliminating the pulled section. i have many times used 80 grit sandpapper to do this type of work.

[Wasichu]

Pat B.  So you are saying that if one chose to shape a "green" wood boiling would be the way to go?   Dry wood heat gun&oil would work better?  Correct?

                                                                                             Thanks!

[Pat B]

I prefer steam to boiling but yes. Actually when steaming green wood you are also forcing some of the moisture out of the green wood. Green wood bends better than wood that has already been cured, too. Dean Torges talks about this in his book, "Hunting The Osage Bow" which is an excellent reference to selecting, cutting, seasoning, steaming and tillering bows, specifically osage...but it works with other woods also.  The Trad Bowyers Bible II has a chapter on "Bending Wood" that is also helpful.        Pat