Hide glue crack repair?

[sleek]

Say you got a crack ( not a check or a splinter ) in the back, in a working section, 7 inches from the fade  and bends but not much. Let's say its on the edge and goes into the bow about 1/4 inch toward the center and stops. Is there any reason why hide glue wouldn't be a better choice than CA glue to fill that, and pull the wood back together?  I don't know what the difference is in tension strength between CA and hide glue, but I like how hide glue shrinks.

And I should add, this crack is not hypothetical. Its on my favorite bow, made of osage that I can not replace due to the conditions surrounding it, its sentimental.  I have shot this bow with the crack, it never made a sound, don't know why, when, or how it formed. I can only guess its because the osage is figured with birds eyes. For that reason I'd rather not back it.

[sleek]

Here is the crack, its in the glare, left side, towards the bottom.

[sleek]

Here's another shot of it. Man I love how pretty that wood is.

[DC]

I have to admit I was very impressed with hide glue with my horn bow but I'm not sure it would wick into a crack like that.

[mmattockx]

Since it's your favourite bow and has sentimental value I would use a belt and suspenders approach to ensure it does not break, ever. I would wick thin CA into that crack then patch the area with sinew or flax fibres/linen. It stays traditional with natural materials and you can keep shooting the bow for years to come without the fear of an explosion playing on your mind.


Mark

[sleek]

I have to admit I was very impressed with hide glue with my horn bow but I'm not sure it would wick into a crack like that.

I believe there is a way to thin hide glue further than just adding water. Perhaps ammonia or something to that affect. I got to look into it. I may put a heat lamp on it, brace is, and put a drop on it, never letting it cool until the crack is sure to be filled.

[sleek]

Since it's your favourite bow and has sentimental value I would use a belt and suspenders approach to ensure it does not break, ever. I would wick thin CA into that crack then patch the area with sinew or flax fibres/linen. It stays traditional with natural materials and you can keep shooting the bow for years to come without the fear of an explosion playing on your mind.


Mark

I'm considering something to that effect.

[DC]

Alcohol is what was suggested in Adam's book.

[sleek]

Alcohol is what was suggested in Adam's book.

Thanks, I will try that

[Gordon]

Filling the crack with glue will probably not do anything because unless you address what caused the crack, it will likely open up again.

[sleek]

Filling the crack with glue will probably not do anything because unless you address what caused the crack, it will likely open up again.

This is the tiller.  The edges are VERY rounded. The grain is all over, due to its figuring. The crack is about 9 inches above my hand.

[sleek]

The back is all over with undulations. Its possible I nicked it and didn't know it, causing it to crack before I went an finished the edges with a smoot radius.

[sleek]

I left ALL of its character in it, deflex and all. I MAY heat treat the cracked area a touch to stiffen it so it doesn't bend, that should reduce its strain. Of course, the rest of the limb will need to be adjusted to make up for that.

[Gordon]

As long as the crack stays on the edge you're probably safe doing nothing about it. You can wrap it if it bothers you.

[sleek]

Here is a sanded down view of it