First try arrow making

[paulc]

So I am trying first time to make arrows w intent of doing them well. In past I've just thrown the parts together w predictable results. I cut nocks today and did just a few test shots w just the shafts, no feathers or points. River cane shafts w oak inserts glued in for stronger ends. One shaft flew straight, other 2 tumbled end over end as soon as I let them fly. Really have no idea what I "learned" w my experiment.

Suggestions for success while also cutting down on time investment? Hate the thought of several hrs invested in a shaft that is really a wall hanger right from word go....I really have idea how to evaluate a bare shaft.

Thanks, Paul

[BowEd]

Put a 125 grain field point on them before shooting with no feathers.

[DC]

Put a 125 grain field point on them before shooting with no feathers.

+1

[paulc]

Done, 95% improvement on a couple quick test flights. Thanks BowEd!

What can/should I do to "tune" these shafts before I put proper hunting points and fletches on them?

Is there a build along on here...I couldn't find one. I've looked at YouTube and was disappointed by what came up in my first search.

When using cane or sucker/branch shoots as a natural shaft you all put the fat end up front and skinny part of shaft is the nock..?

Thanks y'all. Paul

[bjrogg]

Paul yes put the thick end forward. Skinny end back.
There’s a lot to making good arrows tuned to your bow. Like Ed said you need a point or at least weight up front. We call it weight forward of center. F.O.C.

We also need the right “spine” and “dynamic spine”.

The spine is simply the stiffness of the shaft. Generally speaking a heavier draw weight bow will like a stiffer arrow. Things like arrows shelves cut to center shot can allow a bow a slightly wider range of spine.
Wide handle off knuckles takes a weaker spine. Narrower a stiffer.

What really matters though is our dynamic spine. If we take two arrow shafts the exact same stiffness.
We cut one to 27” and put a 125 grain point on. The other we leave at 30” and put the same 125 grain point on. The one we cut to 27” will have a stiffer dynamic spine. To visualize this image taking a long straw and pushing it together from both ends. Being long it bends easily. If you try it with a shorter straw it’s stiffer and doesn’t want to bend. Remember shortening arrow will stiffen dynamic spine.

Point weight also effects dynamic spine. Take two shafts exactly same spine and length. I you put a 125 grain point on one and a 160grain point on the other. The arrow with the 160 grain point (heavier) will have the weaker dynamic spine.

The reason we want our dynamic spine to be properly tuned to our bow is to get it to bend properly to go around the handle at release and then straighten itself out at the exact moment that it’s flying straight towards the target. If dynamic spine is to stiff it will straighten out to soon and arrow would be flying with tail end to the right.(for right hand) that is without fletching or as we say “bareshaft”.

If dynamic spine is to weak it will keep flexing till past center and straighten out flying with tail to the left bareshaft. Do your bareshaft from about 6 yards.

It all sounds confusing, but it’s really not once you visualize it.
Bjrogg

[paulc]

Thanks BJ, yeah it makes some sense tonight. Probably make more sense in the morning :-)

If you all cut 10 shafts, how many good arrows will you get for a particular bow? Ratio of decorator arrows vs hunting arrows?

Thanks

[bjrogg]

Paul I built myself a spine tester. I’m not saying a person has to have one to make well tuned arrows but I do believe it helps.

The hardest arrow to make is the first one. It takes some experimentation to come up with the right combination for a particular bow. Once you find the right combination you can try to repeat that combination by making or choosing the same combination spine shafts, length and point weight.

You can also change length and or point weight to come up with the proper dynamic spine to match your bow.

When I make arrows the last thing I do is put fletching on. I always shoot them bareshaft first. If they are flying sideways there’s no since putting fletching on yet. If they are flying with tail to the right they are to stiff. You can add point weight or file sides of shaft a bit to lower spine of shaft.

I prefer to start out with a longer shaft that is most likely slightly weak. After shooting bareshaft and tail is flying sideways tail to the left. Now I can shorten shaft slightly and repeat bareshaft until it flys straight and not sideways.

Bjrogg

[paulc]

That's exactly what I needed to hear BJ...couldn't decide which end I should shorten.....I guess I will try mounting some of my so so points and see what happens.

Save the better hunting points for when I'm confident of a proper arrow when done.

Paul

[bjrogg]

Paul I like to use pole barn spikes for target points to. I can start out with point to heavy creating a weak dynamic spine. Then I can keep taking a little off the spike till I get weight right for the proper dynamic spine.

Sometimes I even remove point from a well tuned arrow. Weigh it and halved a stone point of the same weight in its place. I’ve had good luck using this method.

Bjrogg

[Hawkdancer]

Very informative thread!  Great tutorial, even I understand how to make an arrow now! . Thanks for the info?
Hawkdancer