Author Topic: 20 Gauge smooth bore  (Read 7167 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Mike Yancey

  • Member
  • Posts: 222
20 Gauge smooth bore
« on: February 12, 2020, 12:21:58 pm »


Here is the finished gun that I started from scratch a couple of years ago, showing my neighbor and allowing him to help on it.









« Last Edit: February 13, 2020, 08:07:15 pm by Mike Yancey »

Offline Stoker

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,729
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2020, 04:31:08 pm »
Very nice. That'll ruin some turkeys day. Cherry stock?
Thanks Leroy
Bacon is food DUCT tape - Cipriano

Offline Mike Yancey

  • Member
  • Posts: 222
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2020, 05:47:16 pm »
Yes, cherry.

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,436
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2020, 06:18:30 pm »
Strange you should bring this up, I am in the final stage of building an Isaac Haines rifle which I swore would be my last.

I guess one can't escape building once you start, I was just on all the barrel sites seeing what a long octagon to round barrel would cost me. i have a cherry blank I cut on my place four years ago that would use. It has one flaw in the butt that may work out or may not but I want to  use a blank I cut myself.  I am thinking about an american fowler, maybe a 20 or a 16ga, I already have a Gustomsky 20 and a 12ga english fowler I built.

I want something longer and leaner than my 12 which has a 38" D weight jug choked barrel on it for turkeys. Here is my 12 ga, I worked off the full size English fowler plans from Track to shape it;





 
« Last Edit: February 12, 2020, 06:29:55 pm by Eric Krewson »

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,436
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2020, 06:32:21 pm »
My lock is a little slow at times, I'm thinking about sending it off to an expert and having the springs properly timed and everything tuned.


Offline Mike Yancey

  • Member
  • Posts: 222
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2020, 08:27:09 pm »
Pretty gun Eric!

Offline Tracker0721

  • Member
  • Posts: 736
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2020, 09:15:09 pm »
Went to school for gunsmithing year before last, dealt with ATF all last year, and honestly seeing your muzzleloaders makes me think I’ve wasted my time because those are such much cooler! If you don’t mind me asking, how much did the build cost? I was looking around and it seems I could buy old kit muzzleloaders and cannibalize them into what I want cheaper than buying a kit.
May my presence go unnoticed, may my shot be true, may the blood trail be short. Amen.

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,436
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2020, 10:21:35 pm »
If you take the time to build a rifle you might as well use top notch parts instead of restocking old parts. Depending on what type of gun you build the parts will cost between $600 and $1200.

I keep this on file, this is the reality of gun building and the different levels you can choose from.

I hope you understand these "kits" offered by Track of the Wolf, Pecatonica River, Jim Chambers,Muzzleloader Builders Supply, etc are far from a easily built "kit". In fact, they could be more properly called a "box of rough parts".
Absolutely nothing will fit.

The only things that come close to being finished parts are the lock and the trigger. Even these parts require locating, drilling and threading the holes for the screws that hold the parts to the stock.

The barrel is not finished. It is rifled but the sight dovetails are not cut and on many of them the breechplug is not installed. This applies to the trigger guard, butt plate, side plate too. These are just rough, unfinished sand castings.

All of the parts will need to be inletted into the wooden stock. This applies to the barrel, lock, trigger guard, butt plate, side plate and ramrod thimbles.
Speaking of the stock, even it is just a moderately close roughed out blank which will require a LOT of wood removal to be close to the real longrifles.

Knowledge of metal and wood work is a definite requirement.

Plan on spending a minimum of 120 hours of your time to finish your gun. Actually, for a first build, a number like 180 hours would be closer if you want your gun to be something you can be proud of.

Kibler kits (about $1000) are a big step up from a parts kit, all the wood shaping (historically correct) is done by a CNC machine but the inlets are a little undersized so you have to fit the parts. The metal is rough castings so you have to do the finish work. All the holes are drilled for barrel lugs but you do have to install and drill the lugs for the barrel and lug holes for the trigger guard. The barrel will need to be draw filed and have the sights installed in the pre-cut dovetails. Your finished gun will be very period correct. Kibler is now making CNC machined locks that as perfect in function as any lock ever produced. Putting together a Kibler kit takes about 15 hours. Here is one I built, a Southern Mountain Rifle;



I'm not telling you all of this to discourage you. I just don't want to see anyone go into this with the idea that the gun will be ready for assembly.

Speaking of ready for assembly, Traditions, Lyman and Pedersoli offer kits that are easy to assemble and finish.
These are basically the same guns these companies sell but the parts don't have their finish sanding and finishing done.

These "Big Factory Kits" are indeed, true "kits" with all of the threaded holes located and finished.

They require something like 15-30 hours of your time to finish depending on whether you wish to make modifications like reshaping the stock or installing inlays or wire inlays.
 
« Last Edit: February 12, 2020, 10:27:50 pm by Eric Krewson »

Offline Mike Yancey

  • Member
  • Posts: 222
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2020, 06:53:28 am »
 What Eric said, plus to get a real nice gun you will spend some money. My barrels and locks cost more than some of those low end kits. I use my own wood and get dealer price on a lot of parts and it still costs more than the low end kits.
I like to profile out my stocks on the band saw and love to watch a thick slab of wood turn into a rifle, especially after you shape up the stock with rasps and scrapers.
There is a lot to know about how it all goes to make em look and flow right. Get every book you can find on flintlocks.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2020, 09:19:46 am by Mike Yancey »

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,436
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2020, 08:03:55 am »
This guy puts out the most detailed video series out there on flintlock building, I think this is his third gun. I thought I had it all down but have picked up a few tips watching his TN rifle build, I am only on the 5th video so far.

These are long and tedious to watch but worth your time if you want to see what is involved.

I copied this address at 1 minute so you will have to back it up to the start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNTSjnIlsSQ&list=PLBU_q5noQX2uBSQqQ3ITN1EOt6yr2Yx2v&index=0

Offline gifford

  • Member
  • Posts: 479
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2020, 12:23:36 pm »
Well said Eric, a box of rough parts and a stock blank of nice wood.

Be sure to allow time for staring at the parts and wood at various times, muttering, what the heck did I get myself into.

It takes a fair amount skill and heap of patience to make a muzzle loading rifle or smoothbore.

Eric and Mike, you both make fine looking muzzle loaders, no two ways about it.

Offline Parnell

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,557
Re: 20 Gauge smooth bore
« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2020, 08:40:08 am »
I followed Bill Raby's youtube series for the trade gun I had built.  It was hugely helpful.  I hadn't seen his Lancaster series, yet.  Good to know with my progress on the Lancaster I'm working on.

That cherry sure is good looking.  I sometimes think about doing a cherry blank full carve for a next project, down the road...we'll see.  One thing at a time.
1’—>1’