Correcting tiller

[paulc]

If you have a stave that you know is coming in under weight and the tiller is still not correct-is there much value in correcting tiller and then piking/retillering to get weight? Or should I stop now w tiller work, pike it and start over? Stave is hickory, currently 69” e to e. Don’t know actual weight as I have managed to misplace my scale(why I rarely put stuff away :-).  I would guess it is mid 40’s but really have little business making that guess. There is prop twist in one limb, instead of heating twist out I tillered by removing wood preferentially from strong side so limb straightens as it flexes.

Thanks for your input. Happy 4th!

Paul

[DC]

I'm trying to do that at the moment. I tied the string to the bow to test the shorter length. I was really surprised how much just eliminating the recurve raised the draw weight. I'm going to get some numbers later and I'll post them on my "Continuing problem" post.

[SLIMBOB]

Usually yes. Shorten and retiller. The answer is partly tied up in how long the bow is now and the draw length, but assuming you have the length, decent plan.

[Pat B]

I would correct the tiller first then pike to desired weight if it's in the bow. No need doing extra work if the bow doesn't have it in it. Once it's tillered I would temper the belly. This could raise the weight a few pounds and would help strengthen the compression and, if you have a caul you could add some reflex but get the tiller right first.

[paulc]

As usual some of y’all say go left and some of y’all say go right. :-)  Belly is tempered, twice. Maybe i should find/buy a scale before I do anything.....P

[SLIMBOB]

Pats advice is sound. If the tiller is off it will be off once it is piked. Questions are 1.  Is the tiller on? 2. How much can (should) you pike?
We’re it me...my tiller would be very close at this point, so I would pike it and not worry about not having enough to work with muscle wise. That’s his concern I think.

[paulc]

That’s kinda what I was thinking Bob...if the tiller is already on, or at least close, piking ought to leave it close?  But if piking is like starting over then why bother w fixing the tiller only to cut it away. of course I have no idea how much to remove. Any guesses on how many pounds I could gain, say per inch piked? I’d like to get at least 5lbs back.....Paul

[SLIMBOB]

How long is the bow now, what’s the draw length and what’s it pulling at full draw?

[SLIMBOB]

I will make some assumptions. Draw of 28 inches?  64 inches should be fine. Maybe better than 69 at the end of the day. That’s 5 inches. 2.5 inches off each limb. Redo recurves and tips. That should bring it up a good bit and still be long enough.

[paulc]

You’re right about draw length and current length Bob but the recurves belong to DC’s bow. What I’m working on is straight limbed, I’ll see if I have a pic. Paul

[SLIMBOB]

No sweat. Just take 2.5 inches off the tips (each). Bendy or rigid handle?

[Pat B]

I would gradually take length off of each tip only 1" at a time but only after fixing everything else first.

[paulc]

Where I am at so far....thanks for any input!  Paul

[burchett.donald]

Looking great Paul...Nice and even, might want to touch that right fade a bit...

[SLIMBOB]

Take a 4 inch straight edge. 1x2. 2x2. Anything you can lay against the belly as you pull it. Check the gap between it and the bow. Wide gap...bending plenty.  No gap...not bending enough. Mark those areas with a pencil and take wood off the stiff spots. Check it frequently after 5-6 scrapes. Check it again with the straight edge. When the gap is even handle to tip. It’s right. Do the same with both limbs as you want them to stay matched with one another.
Common sense is needed. The near handle area and near non bending tips will be flat. No gap.  Everything in between should have an even gap.  Looking good.