Author Topic: Fus slipping problems  (Read 1579 times)

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Offline sleek

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Fus slipping problems
« on: April 27, 2019, 01:42:25 pm »
I was given a winter shot racoon that was frozen the day it was shot. I'm just now getting to it. I grabbed the paw and the fur acted like peeling skin from a sunburn and the fur peeled right off with a layer of skin. Is this normal? Is it worth messing with?
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Fus slipping problems
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2019, 02:32:15 pm »
Rawhide it and make a banjo.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bjrogg

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Re: Fus slipping problems
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2019, 05:12:57 am »
Was it skinned? Or was it put in freezer whole? Was it even put in freezer or just hung outside to freeze? Is it just doing this on one leg by the thin skin on paws?
It would definitely be a concern to me. It sounds like fur is slipping. I haven't had that problem with raccoon but Red Fox it's really easy to loose a bit of fur especially around ears. Also base and tip of tail. It might just need the fur to set. A pickling bath helps this. I've actually had my best luck skinning animals when still warm. Fox I'll flesh right away and put on stretchers leather out. They flesh easily. Raccoons have a lot of fat and grizzly membrane. I like to put the skinned hide in a plastic bag rolled up fur out and put in freezer if it's going to be awhile. If it's cold enough out I may just leave it outside for a hour till the fat gets cold and hard. It fleshes much easier cold. Then I put on stretchers leather out. When the leather dries out it helps set the fur. Not sure what type of tan your planning on. I've just used commercial tan from taxidermy supply catalogs for my fur bearers. I use a relaxer, degreaser bath to rehydrate and remove oils from hide. It's been awhile now since I've done it. But salt, water and degreaser with a bacteriacide. Then a pickling bath if I remember correctly. Salt, water and enough safety acid to maintain the ph between 1 and 2. You can leave in this solution forever if you maintain the ph between 1-2. I leave in a minimum of three days. Then rinse and give a baking soda bath. Rinse again. Then the tanning bath. I used the Lutan system. I'm not sure but I think it's aluminum powder, salt, water and a ph about 4 if I remember correctly. If I remember correctly leave in a minimum of 24hr no more than 48 hrs. Then rinse, hang to drain excess water and towel dry fur. Then turn leather out and apply softening oil. Two parts warm water, one part oil. Rub into leather trying to avoid getting on fur if possible. Roll up and leave in plastic bag overnight. Then I put on stretchers fur out till fur is starting to dry. Then turn leather out and as leather dries poke it with your fingers. When it turns white and breaks fibers it's ready to start working. Different areas will dry sooner than others. Belly areas usually first neck, head and back last. You have to keep at it till completely dry or hide will be stiff.
If you get this far I've got a few more tips. It's a lot of work however you do it. I hope your hide is good. Really always wonder how taxidermy guys don't have this problem all the time. Maybe they do.
Bjrogg
« Last Edit: April 28, 2019, 05:22:42 am by bjrogg »
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