two dart type points PICs

[D. Tiller]

So, mullet your making Dalton points then?

[mullet]

 I can.

[cowboy]

Fluting is on the back burner for me. I have made a coupla clovis looking points with percussion but haven't gotten serious about it. Just like Mullet said - you want a good smooth taper from each edge to the median ridge (base to tip) then set up your platform on the base and smack it. Like I said on another post - results will vary .

[Otoe Bow]

I did one unintentionally on one side, does that count?  It was kind of wasted effort since the point was still about 3/8 of an inch thick.   

They look really sweet when done right.

Mike

[cowboy]

I really don't know Mike - they may need to be in the neighborhood of 3/8" to flute ? I'll git on it one day - first I gotta make some good huntin arras and take game with em, then I'll experiment some .

[Hillbilly]

Mike, a lot of fluted points were pretty thick-that's part of why they fluted them. They could get the base thin enough to haft while still keeping enough beef in the body of the point to puncture big, mean critters. Everybody nowadays seems to want to make soda-cracker thin display points, but thinner isn't always better-if you can haft it in a shaft, and have enough thinness on the edges to get it sharp, thicker just means stronger when it hits that scapula or spine.

[D. Tiller]

Just what I was thinking too! I see a lot of points these days made paper thin but think they would not be very practical if used for hunting or fighting in pre historic times.

David T

[Wolf Watcher]

An old plumber friend of mine who has passed away from Dallas perfected the art of reproducing Clovis and Folsom points.  He went to universities in the US and Europe demonstrating his findings.  Those points were not thick, but perfectly shaped thru the cross section and end to end.  His name was J. B. Solberger and he died from silicon poisining. He developed a jig called the Solberger Jig that works very well to flute with.  I have one and haven't used it for years.  Here is my take:  Make the best shaped point you can and when it breaks you can cry.  Any heavy scars crossing the stone will divert the flute off to the center or will cause the flute to end in a step fracture.  The preparation of the nipple is paramount to  successful  travel of the flute.  Taking some material off the sides of the nipple will thin the sides of the nipple and direct the flake down the center of the point.  To do this is much like starting a side nock with the idea that a few small well directed flakes will set up the nipple.  Support of the stone when striking the nipple is the secret once all the above preparations have taken place.  You can get the support you need by sticking the point straight down in damp sod.  The problem there is having room to strike the nipple.  A small punch takes care of that problem.  It doesn't take a lot of force to force this flake off.  Takes a lot of trial and error, but worth it when you finally get one that works.  Watcher

[mullet]

 Watcher, I've always been a fan of in-direct percussion when it comes to fluting are stubborn stacks.

[redwasp]

I'm doing good then cause all mine are thick LOL. Very nice points bro. one day when i grow up I'll be able to make points like that.

[bowmo]

beautiful! love the shape of that mahogany point...

[Dingleberry]

very nice.