Newbie Questions About Wood Arrows

[KristinB83]

Hello, everyone,

I'm pretty brand new to traditional archery/traditional bowhunting and am just starting to dive into primitive archery/primitive bowhunting. I've been practicing shooting and getting my form down since Fall 2018 with a couple of recurve bows (a 22# Snake and a 58" 32# @24" Ragim Matrix J. takedown; the 22# bow is for getting my form right and the 32# is for slowly building my muscles up so I can shoot at 40#, the minimum draw weight for hunting deer with traditional bows in NC). I have taken my state's hunters' ed course and I have my hunting license for the first time ever. I'm hoping to go on my first hunts (starting with small game) this fall/winter, if I'm ready by then.

I discovered this board because a lot of the old posts on here were answering my Google questions about building wood arrows using goose and other feathers, traditional fletching with deer sinew, etc. I recently decided to take the plunge and try to make some of my own wood arrows, since the carbon arrows I use for practice are expensive and I like wood arrows better. I spoke to someone at 3 Rivers Archery and they suggested I get shafts that are 5/16" in diameter and 30-35# in spine and to cut them to around 27". They also suggested 125 gr points. I am a shortie (only 5' tall) and my draw length is only 23" and 1/4, which is why I think they suggested those parameters. But I am really a total newbie at this.

I have ordered 12 parallel Port Orford cedar shafts, some wild turkey feathers (right wing), some 125 g field points, a right helical fletching jig, a tapering tool, etc. for this project. I've also got some Canada goose feathers I'm hoping to fletch with. I also have managed to acquire some of the old Bear Razorhead broadheads off of Ebay. And I've been reading books and scouring the Internet for any and all information about how to build your own wood arrows.

With all that said, here are my questions:

What types of wood do y'all like to use when building your arrows? What are the reasons for your choice of wood? Same goes for any other materials you use (river cane, reed, etc). Does anyone have any tips for building wood arrows (or any kind of "primitive" arrows) and fletching for the first time? I have some real deer leg sinew that I got for another project and I'm thinking of using it for these arrows. Can I fletch with just the sinew or is it good to also add glue? What kind of points do y'all like to use? Bone or stone or something else? Is it hard to knap stone points or to make bone points? If there is a way to make your own field points at home, what can you use for that? I saw a discussion thread here where duplex nails were suggested, but I'm in an apartment and don't have any access to any kind of workshop or machinery. Anything I do will have to be very "primitive." :-P

Looking forward to learning from all of you.

Cheers!

[Blayne]

Thats exciting to jump into this with both feet! I have been building arrows as a hobby business for a couple years now and I still learn new things all the time! My prefered shaft is Sitka spruce. My friend makes them and he got me going in this game, plus they are made in Canada where I am at, so it makes it easier for me all around. POC and Doug fir are fine shafts, I lean towards the fir. For primitives I have used bamboo, ocean spray, red osier dogwood and am about to work some Nootka rose.

To answer your other questions, you are on the right path. Just get started! Don’t be stalled by “analysis paralysis”, build yourself a set and keep experimenting! One thing that I think is crucial is learning to straighten milled shafts. Take your time and get it right! Ask around your community in the spring, I bet you can find wild turkey feathers that hunters are tossing out. I would suggest doing your first arrows with the fletching jig and glue, play with sinew on the leading edge of the feathers, even do a quill wrap, but get them stuck down first. Can be pretty tricky doing it all by hand! You don’t need glue but it can make life easier.

And start with the manufactured steel points for now, and as you follow the path find a knap in and learn how to make stone points. All this stuff is obtainable, just stay curious and don’t be afraid to make mistakes and learn from them, because we ALL do! Feel free to PM me if you want more specific arrow buukding questions answered:)

[TSA]

dunno who this blayne guy is - sounds like a wierdo to me- but he does offer many valid points.
i am rather biased when it comes to manufactured shaft material- preferring sitka spruce- especially when you are trying to keep the mass down on finished arrows- allowing greater versatility with higher point weights and improved FOC.
as you get into hunting, especially with lower weight bows, you will find a good foc arrow is a huge advantage.
many natural shoot shafts will also help with that, being that they have  a natural taper- and with the shafts already having a higher foc than a parallel shaft.
there is tons of good info out there with regards to building and fletching wooden arrows, but if you are looking at a single resource for building primitive arrows, then this is the place- some phenomenal craftspeople on here.

as for primitive- i am quite partial to  a two fletch  setup, with a knapped head.
i have seen some great south eastern two fletch shafts on here- and variants of it.
Patb springs to mind as someone who really builds, shoots and hunts quite a bit with the south eastern two fletch pattern.
in fact, Pat lives right in your neck of the woods, he should be quite easy to make contact with.

good luck 

ps. that blayne dude is pretty ok as an arrow builder - he will have some great insights and help for you!

[Hawkdancer]

Welcome aboard, Kristin!  You are on the right track for sure!  The folks on this site have a
Wealth of knowledge and will share it willingly.  You can make blunts for hunting with
.38/.357 cases, empty.410, 28 ga, & 20 ga shotgun shells or even a rawhide
Bundle wrapped and sinewed on to the tip.  Good hunting!   Also post
Pictures and ask questions!
Hawkdancer

[rebsr52339]

If you don't mind telling, what state are you located in?

[rebsr52339]

Sorry about that, I see it is NC. There are a bunch of traditional/primitive guys/gals here in NC. If you are near Mebane NC just off I85/40, We can help with hands on and save you a lot of time. Help is out there and all you got to do is ask.

[Philipp A]

Hi Kristin,

I am glad you are trying to make your own primitive arrows, it is a lot of fun! I attempt to give you my perspective / answers to your questions:

What types of wood do y'all like to use when building your arrows? Answer: For purchased arrow blanks Douglas-fir and Sitka Spruce are great. I have started to make my own arrows from hardwood harvested from my bush. The first ones are from White Ash and they seem to perform well. I will also makes some from yellow birch but don't yet have experience with the wood as arrow wood

What are the reasons for your choice of wood? Answer: browsing primitive archer for advise, purchasing arrow blanks from reputable supplier and then experimenting with my own wood available from my bushSame goes for any other materials you use (river cane, reed, etc).

Does anyone have any tips for building wood arrows (or any kind of "primitive" arrows) and fletching for the first time? Answer: Carson Brown of Echo Archery has an excellent tutorial on primitive arrow fledging on Youtube and I can highly recommend reviewing it. Here is the link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y_tbjwwlvA That is what I have reviewed when fledging my first arrows. I would also buy the nock and point tool to prepare the nock and to add the point (if you want to add field or trade points). It is a bit like a pencil sharpener. With the nock I use it to only sharpen it to a point halfway and then cut with a metal saw perpendicular to the grain a slot. I then drill a hole at the end of the slot that represents the width of the serving you use on your bow string. After that I use key files to widen the slot, flare it towards the end about half way in the slot and then also widen it to the width of the drilled hole in the other direction. You will end up with a narrowing in the centre of the slot that will clip your arrow into the end of the slot when shooting much the same way as when you buy a commercial nock. I paint my arrows with the colours and decoration I like before fledging, since it is easier to do than after you mount the fledging. I leave the point unpainted, so the field point bonds better. I use the Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Point Glue. With that glue you can easily remove the field point and replace it with a trade point etc by just reheating the point

I have some real deer leg sinew that I got for another project and I'm thinking of using it for these arrows. Can I fletch with just the sinew or is it good to also add glue? Answer: I don't use any glue with the sinew but I chew it well before using it so it seems that this activates the natural glue in the sinew and I have no problem with it coming loose later. I find dipping it in hide glue makes things sticky when trying to attach the fledging. I later seal the arrow with shellac and the arrows hold up really well even when getting wet.

What kind of points do y'all like to use? Answer: I used 125 grain field points for target shooting and I would use steel broadhead points for hunting arrows if you hunt. I also use obsidian points but I don't hunt with those points and they go on the wall for my bow and arrow exhibit at home. I intend to make next some bone and antler points, so just experiment and see what you like. I Bone or stone or something else?

Is it hard to knap stone points or to make bone points? Answer: I have not yet tried to knap points until I master the other aspects of arrow making. I however think it is great if you want to learn it. I will ultimately get there myself as well.

If there is a way to make your own field points at home, what can you use for that? I saw a discussion thread here where duplex nails were suggested, but I'm in an apartment and don't have any access to any kind of workshop or machinery. Anything I do will have to be very "primitive." :-P Answer: there are a lot of options available for you but to be honest if you are at the same time wanting to become a good shot I suggest you stick with commercially purchased field points with the same weight until you are sure that your form is perfect and then venture to make your own field points (you would have to make sure that the weights are the same). The advantage of buying commercial field points with a specified size and weight matching your arrows is that you can then replace the field points with equivalent broadhead points for hunting bigger game and you will know that you will still hit your target. You indicated that you would want to hunt small game first, so making some blunts would be a good option. There are lots of different options for blunts available (lots of Youtube info on this)

I hope this helps, happy shooting and hunting!

Phil

[KristinB83]

Thank you so much, everyone! All of the posts are very helpful! Mebane is about an hour and a half drive from me and is actually where I got my Snake bow at. I sometimes go up to Alamance County for traditional archery shoots with a group up there. So I may be able to give a shout at you, rebsr52339. Looks like Brevard is a good ways away from me (4 hour drive, according to Google maps), but I see it's near Nantahala NF. I may be headed out there one of these days just to see that part of the state. Anyway, until then, it's an honor to learn from all of you and thank you for the tips!

[rebsr52339]

Kristin, You probably got your bow at Eagle Archery in Mebane. Don Ward is a good friend of mine. Everything Philipp said is good advice. If you come to a match at "Barefoot Archery Club" (They are few and far between), Call me, Dick Bernier,  at 1 336 562 3700. I am retired and can host you any day or "most weekends". My friends and I have a boatload of equipment gathered over the years and you can have hands on trying them out before you "purchase anything". I am also a flint napper and can "introduce" you to it. You are about to enter into a hobby which can consume you. You will not regret it.

PS I have archery and shooting ranges out to 200 yards for practice on my property.

Dick

[KristinB83]

Barefoot Traditional Archers is the traditional archery club I joined whose shoots I go to! And, yes, Eagle Archery/Don Ward is exactly who I bought my Snake bow from! LOL Small world! I just got my POC shafts the other day that I had already ordered, but I'm a little nervous about trying to straighten them and taper them. I may be giving you a call to ask you a few questions about it. I will be at Barefoot Traditional Archers' March 16th shoot. Hope to see you there, if I don't meet you before sometime! Thank you so much!

[Pat B]

Generally good POC shafts need little if any straightening and by rubbing the outside of the curve(bend) with a smooth round object(burnish) you can remove any slight bends. As far as tapering are you talking about making tapered shafts or tapering for the point and nock? I've done both with little trouble.

[mullet]

I can't top any of that advice except watch out for that red guy. Is your snake bow fiberglass and did James Parker make it?

[rebsr52339]

Eddie, who is the "red" guy?
PS Amy is searching for a campground near pappy's. Our tag along is 32 feet and would be hard to negotiate that drive way. Would want to stay for the week.

Kristen I will be at the shoot with my friend Harry. You can call me anytime before and if no answer wait till the message is over and leave me your number.

[KristinB83]

Pat B,

They seem to be good POC shafts (from Wapiti Archery POC in Grants Pass, OR), I'm just a total newbie and all I have on hand for instructions for making wood arrows is "The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" by T.J. Conrads. I have been trying to look down the shafts to see if there are any bends, but I really can't tell. When I look at the grains of the shafts, they all look straight all the way down the shafts. Do you have any examples of the kinds of things that would work, if I do need to straighten any of them?

For tapering, I mean tapering for the point and nock. How do you decide which end should be for the nock and which for the point? I have a tapering tool now, but it didn't come with instructions. It looks kind of like a pencil sharpener to me. I am just not sure how to start, once the shafts are straightened (if they need to be).

rebsr52339,

I will be giving you a call today if I can.

mullet,

I think fiberglass? Don Ward said it was made from the same material that they make compound bows out of. I don't know who made it. I literally bought it off a stand it was on in his shop. There was no box or anything. LOL Pretty sure it's a Snake.

 

[Hawkdancer]

Kirsten,
The "long" taper in the sharpener is for the points, the short end is for nocks, unless, of course you are makng self nocks.  A fletching jig will be a big help!  Have fun!
Hawkdancer