What next?

[paulc]

the pics are of the hickory I have posted about in the past-I was finally able to get back to it for a bit this afternoon.  I threw caution to the wind and used the harshest sandpaper I have on hand:-)  And now it is bending on the tree.  Right now it seems to be around 60lbs although I am not 100% sure of the scale...but it is bending and of course I want to come in a bit heavy not a bit light.  I'd like something between 50lb and 60lb when all is done.  So tell me what is next, where should I be removing wood from now?  I know the handle needs a bunch more work shaping but that shouldn't really effect draw weight; I might try sanding the back a tiny bit just to clean it up before putting on a finish.  I thought I might also try to round the tips a bit so they are less clunky. 

Anyway, thoughts and advice would be really appreciated!  Paul C

[SLIMBOB]

Looks to me that you need to get it bending more right out of the fades.

[Pat B]

...and mid limb on the left limb is a bit stiff too.

[SLIMBOB]

Agree with Pat B...Also, the left limb may be a bit stiffer than the right.  Fixing the mid limb on the left might bring them together a little tighter.

[paulc]

THanks!

[jeffp51]

looks to me like it is time to get a shorter string on it.  With that much bend you should be at low brace I would think, and it looks like you still have a long (untensioned) string on it.

[bjrogg]

looks to me like it is time to get a shorter string on it.  With that much bend you should be at low brace I would think, and it looks like you still have a long (untensioned) string on it.

I agree. I'd try getting it braced with shorter string. Looks like your bending to about brace height now. A short string will pull the tips in more.
Bjrogg

[paulc]

How do I know how long a string to make? I could put it back on the tree and measure tip to tip...?
Paul

[SLIMBOB]

You can put a knot in one end of the string and adjust the length.

[bjrogg]

Paul usually for my actual string I put one loop on tip and make string about four maybe five inches short of other tip. I usually error the the long side. You can put twist in string to make it shorter if you need to and it's really hard to come out perfect. If you use fast flight it won't stretch much but B-50 can be frustrating. You make string short enough that you can barely get Bow strung and then it stretches out. This can happen several times till you get the stretch out of it. You may want it a bit long yet anyway but I'd like to see it at a low brace now. Braceing the recurves can be a bit tricky till you get used to it. In all honesty braceing bow is one of the scariest things to me. If done in correctly it can be dangerous for bow and or person braceing it. Make sure you spread out the stresses evenly when braceing. I originally used step through method. I can still string a heavier bow easier with this method but it's very important to do it properly. My buddy broke the first bow I made him because he didn't have his step through leg on handle. It was 1/3 of way down lower limb and he was heartbroken when his beautiful bow made a very ugly noise. Was no fixing that one. I use push pull method now and always show and make each person I give a bow how to string it. They usually struggle at first but then slowly get the hang of it. Most have never strung a bow in their lives before.
Good Luck, I don't mean to scare you. Just trying to give you a little heads up.
Bjrogg

[George Tsoukalas]

I agree with slim bob and Pat B. Pretty much. What are the dimensions of the stave non and what is your draw length? Jawge

[DC]

I put one of these removable links in my long string. Then I can keep shortening the string until it's about the right length and then make a final string.

[paulc]

Honestly not sure how to measure draw length...the arrows I shoot out of my purchased bow are 31” knock to tip. But I know that’s not draw length...probably 28” draw...maybe 29”. I’m an average 6’1” guy if that helps. The hickory bow is 68” tip to tip, limbs are a heavy 1.5” at the fades tapering to .75” at the tips.  Handle is probably 5” when the fade starts so actual not bending area is more like 8 or 9” total...

Moving forward get left limb mid limb bending more and get both limbs working more in the fades...? Have I got that right?

Thanks, Paul

[SLIMBOB]

From the pic, yes.  Loosen it up a bit left mid limb.  Get both working right out of the handle more.  Get both limbs even at brace, or very close.  You can measure from the belly to the string at intervals and check both sides to see that they are close.  Ex:  measure just out of the fades left and right.  Mid limb.  Etc.  One caution.  That pic is a 2 dimensional representation from only one side.  If there are inconsistencies in the limb, like some prop twist as an example, it could tell a completely different story from another angle.  Fixing it based on one side view only will make the other worse in these cases.  Make sure the profile is close to the same from both sides.  Otherwise you will fix one problem only to worsen another.

[paulc]

Definitely a bit of wonk in the stave so I will be sure to check it from both sides.

THANKS!  Paul