BOW LOOKS BETTER DRAWN THAN ON MY WACKY TILLERING STICK

[Carl Galvin]

Does my bow look a little more promising and less Frankenstein-ish when drawn by hand, as opposed to while on my horrible tillering stick, or is it just me?



https://imgur.com/9OSdppl
https://imgur.com/c7bqHRF

[GlisGlis]

Top limb is still bending more in my opinion

...and there is an old saying that if you dont make all your post titles uppercase your tillering will improve greatly 

[Carl Galvin]

Lol.  Yes sir, the top limb is still bending more, it seems that it is bending more even close to the handles, than the bottom limb is. It suck though that I am already at 45 lbs at my draw weight.  The question I have is whether I should really miserably expect to lose another 10 lbs of draw weight, or if I can get away with getting it a bit closer and at least crash land at 40lbs

[Carl Galvin]

Sorry, at my draw length I meant (28)

[Morgan]

Carl, your bow doesn’t look like Frankenstein, it simply needs some work. Your handle length was mentioned in your previous post. I don’t know what your front profile looks like, but if it allows, you should shorten the handle to 4” and have a smooth transition into the limb. Your outer limbs need to bend. When you break a stick over your knee, it breaks in the center. When you pull a bow string it is the same effect. All things equal, you will get the most bend close to the handle. You want all the limb you can get doing equal work imo. I would suggest you tweak and learn all you can from this bow and not worry about what weight you get from it. Also, you would greatly benefit from a tillering gizmo. Takes pennies and half an hour to make and will save you a ton of time and confusion.

[Morgan]

Also, if that whole handle section isn’t narrowed, when you shorten the handle and bring the fades in, you will be gaining working limb length, so you can possibly pike it to regain some lost pounds after it is properly tillered.

[Carl Galvin]

Morgan,

I am certainly  a rookie, this being my first bow, but the experienced has humbled me even more than before, at least with respect to bow building.  I did arrive at a similar conclusion, although just a novice, that if I brought that fade in more in the stiffer handle, that I may get more of the bend that I am lacking in the inner limb on that handle at least.  The handle is currently about an inch (or just over) londer into that stiffer fade, than it is on the more bending limb.  I may try to work on that handle to see what it does to that tighter limb, before I carry on with the tillering process.

[Carl Galvin]

"Into that stiffer limb," I meant.

[GlisGlis]

I'm pretty sure reducing the handle length could not raise your draw weight.
you will get more bending section, hence less stress on the wood tough

[Carl Galvin]

Thanks Glis

[Morgan]

I'm pretty sure reducing the handle length could not raise your draw weight.
you will get more bending section, hence less stress on the wood tough

I wasn’t suggesting that it would raise the draw weight. I think that this bow needs some fades and the bend needs evened up. He will lose weight evening the bend and shortening the handle with proper fades. With a shorter handle and proper fade area, he will gain a couple inches working limb length. He will then be able to regain *some* of the weight lost if he shortens the limbs after he’s got a good tiller.

[Morgan]

Carl, most of all, be patient. Personally early on, I tried to force the wood into being a bow rather than gradually letting it happen. Regarding fades... I struggled with the same thing. This is the handle section of my very first shootable bow. Note that there is zero smooth transition into the limb

[Pat B]

With the uneven tiller you shouldn't be drawing the bow. Get both limbs bending evenly and together before drawing the bow.

[Bayou Ben]

With the uneven tiller you shouldn't be drawing the bow. Get both limbs bending evenly and together before drawing the bow.

+++++A large number

[Carl Galvin]

MORGAN,
that is a nice looking bow. Thanks for the advice