BBI Dimension Question

[PEARL DRUMS]

If you are getting considerable set from 28-30" its because your bow design isn't adequate for 30". Adding more reflex is just lipstick on a pig. Just because a bow hols reflex doesn't mean a darn thing. Id rather have a bow start flat and follow the string 1.5" than to have a bow start with 5" of reflex and hold 2" of it. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Ty, Id stick around 1" wide, maybe 1.125" max. Keep as much depth to the ipe as you can. Thin the boo down as much as you safely can.

[Bayou Ben]

Pearl, so what dimensional differences would you make to this bow if you needed to go from a 28" to a 30" draw?

[PEARL DRUMS]

At least 2" more length, or another 1/4" of width, or both depending on how much set you are seeing. 

[PatM]

Realistically 72" of Ipe left a bit wider can easily handle a 30 inch draw.

[PEARL DRUMS]

No doubt Pat. But not knowing what Bens bow stats were, I gave general advice to keep excessive set at bay.

[Bayou Ben]

That's what I wanted to know Pearl.  Hopefully it helps Ty and others with long draws too. 

[Springbuck]

Basically, do everything PearlDrums just said.

"I'll wing it by using the dimensions I've found on other sites describing the dimensions of fiberglass HH bows."  It's hard to exactly copy fiberglass bows, but what you are looking for is very similar tiller and finished unstrung profile.

I might have suggested 1.25" wide, just because wood is wood, not F/G, but ipe is indeed fantastic wood for this, being both quite stiff and pretty darn elastic, so as mentioned, it doesn't take much to make a bow as far as thickness, etc.

I also have a long draw, which is a source of occasional frustration when harvesting staves.  There are SO many that are perfect otherwise, but not QUITE long enough for 29" plus, or the higher draw weights, or whatever else.  But, you either add width or thickness, and in this case, more length probably.

But, 72" is pretty long already, should be ok.

[ty_in_ND]

Pearl Drums, thanks for chiming in!  Your HBI "Howard" looked amazing and if I can get one even close to looking like that, I'd be happy.  After I get the side profile on the boo taken care of, I'll take it down to a "knife edge" and see how thick it is after that.  I'll also go easy on the belly thickness (I'll see how the ipe is bending with just the width taper taken care of before I glue the bamboo to it).

[PEARL DRUMS]

Its easy Ty. I have no doubt you can make a perfect Hill style bow. I think I glued about 1.5" of reflex in and I believe the ol' fella held about 1/2". I haven't touched it in a long while and cant remember. The width taper starts about 10-12" off the fades, typically I would go out to mid limb then taper, but not with this type of bow. When it comes time to seal it up, Id suggest wiping a coat of Bullseye on first, then whatever else you want to finish the job. Ipe can be oily as hell, other times not so much. Every piece I've used was different in that regard. Ive used URAC and TB3 and never had issues with either. "Howard" was all TB3.