is this sufficient for elk?

[mullet]

I'd ditch the four blade broadhead, also.

[Pat B]

I would ditch the 4 blade too. A good, scary sharp 2 blade is your best bet.

[Archeryrocks]

The broad head was a 4 blade but I took the extra bleeder blades off when I modified it to a single bevel 2 blade that weighs 100 grains with a 125 grain glue on adapter. I appreciate people with experience reassuring me that it should be enough. I have no experience with elk hunting yet. I am hoping to go out with some neighbors to do some scouting this year. My wife and I have a total of three deer tags this year one archery doe tag and 2 muzzle loader buck tags so with meat processing and tanning hides I'll have quite a bit on my hands I'm planning on using these same arrows for the doe this year. If it all goes to plan then my very first big game animal will be taken with traditional equipment.

[mullet]

Have fun and wish you luck.

[JW_Halverson]

Having the balance point of the arrow Forward Of Center will help too.  Do much reading on hunting arrows and the acronym FOC shows up a lot.  Measure the arrow from end to end and put a little pencil mark on the measured dead center point.  Now balance the arrow on your finger, sliding the arrow forward and backward until it balances.  Mark that point now.  if that point is, you guessed it, forward of center, then you are better off. 

High FOC scores mean the wieght of the arrow "pulls" the arrow along behind.  It also means that the lighter end (fletched end) has less mass so that the archer's paradox recovers more quickly and the arrow stabilizes at a shorter distance.  It has an added benefit of making a slightly more accurate arrow, too.

Dr Ashby's research on thousands of head of game shot with arrows in Africa has two major points, namely 1) cut on contact, two bladed single bevel matching rotation of the arrow and 2) high FOC scores. 

If you got that, all you gotta do is see to it the package is delivered to the right address!

[bradsmith2010]

I didnt see the 4 blade, I agree ,, 2 blade would be my choice with that set up,,

[BowEd]

The broad head was a 4 blade but I took the extra bleeder blades off when I modified it to a single bevel 2 blade that weighs 100 grains with a 125 grain glue on adapter. I appreciate people with experience reassuring me that it should be enough. I have no experience with elk hunting yet. I am hoping to go out with some neighbors to do some scouting this year. My wife and I have a total of three deer tags this year one archery doe tag and 2 muzzle loader buck tags so with meat processing and tanning hides I'll have quite a bit on my hands I'm planning on using these same arrows for the doe this year. If it all goes to plan then my very first big game animal will be taken with traditional equipment.

Arceryrocks...Sorry I misunderstood that you had made the modifications to your broad head.If you can fulfill at least some of your tags that would be great.Good luck.A lot of meat on a good sized elk compared to a whitetail,but a bit more work though too which is understandable.

[Hawkdancer]

Archeryrocks,
Good luck with the deer and the elk!  We drew "long season private land "doe tags over here in Colorado, and I think we are going to try archery and muzzleloading.  Making meat is another part of the equation !  You do have to consider the "elk math theorem" when trying to get an elk out
"One guy 33, and one guy, 66, does not equal 3 guys 33!"   Been there, done that !  I would just like to. Get a shot this year!  Again, good hunting!
Hawkdancer

[Little John]

It does not take a lot to penetrate 10 inches and double lung an elk. Close shots and hits in the kill zone.

[BowEd]

I've never elk hunted but shoot with fellas who do and have with success with long bows.An elk has quite an engine and can go quite a ways at times.Getting a pass through would be desireable for ease of blood trailing reasons but not neccessary.
It's a great challenge but doable.Good Luck.Post your results!!!

[nclonghunter]

I have personally shot two elk in the shoulder with a wheel bow and it stops them dead. Point is, if you dont hit behind that shoulder bone it really doesnt matter. As Will Primos says, you shoot one through the lungs and they are like babies. Your high FOC should carry that arrow through the lungs with ease. Your job is to put it into the lungs and know the distance that you can. They are big animals and get bigger on the ground. You are following the right path with your arrow choice, two blade beveled and high FOC. Good Luck on getting close and placing the shot. I'll add that you should get you a Havalon Blade for skinning and cutting. Thise surgical blades are worth having!

[bjrogg]

Good Luck to all you guys. Archeryrocks best of luck to you sir, I have total confidence if you do your part your equipment will do it's part. Just put it in the right spot and hopefully a quartering away shoot if at all possible. Really helps get that front leg and shoulders out of the way make the sweet spot bigger and helps for drawing your bow. I've never hunted Elk  but my brother has taken 3 with compound. I really have to build him a selfbow this winter. Happy Hunting everyone, have fun and take lots of pictures.
Bjrogg

[Little John]

Dr. Ashbys research should be required reading for all bow hunters. One part that I found interesting is about how more penetration a true flying arrow will get compared to one that is wagging its tail. With that said you can get better penetration sometimes at say 25-30 yards than at 5 with the same set up. There are many more things that help or hurt arrow penetration.

[bradsmith2010]

tuning the set up to your best is key,,
sharp,, shaving sharp,, sometimes a sharpening steel with put the final edge on with ease
put electracal tape on the heads you are not gonna shoot to keep them sharp,,
my friend forgot to take it off and killed large boar with the tape still on,, so not totally necessary but I would advise taking the tape off before shooting at game,,
carry a small file or stone for touch up if you need too,,
a fast flight will add to your set up performance,, every fps you gain,, is like adding a # of draw weight,, something to think about,, would make your set up shoot like a 5 to 7  pound heavier bow,,
keep your silencers to a minimum,,
and shoot the lowest brace you can with perfect arrow flight,, it shoots harder at the lower brace,,

if your arrow is really sharp and you hit right you gonna kill the elk for sure,,

[twocurs]

I don't have a chrono... So I shoot my bows for distance.  I shot an elk last year with a maple selfbow that would cast an 500 grain arrow 170 yard.  The arrow I used to take the elk was a 30", 570 grains cedar shaft footed with 6" of purple heart.  I shot it at 28(ish) yards.  It was quartering at me and I slid the arrow in just behind the shoulder and into the liver.  It penetrated 16".  I don't know if it broke a rib because I didn't check.  We hunt public land and hoof it on foot.  So it was all work when I got to it.