Hickory Design

[Badger]

      I think you will be close, just monitor the set it takes. If it starts taking set at 25" you will have too much set at 29" and may have to go lighter to avoid it. I would rather have a 42# bow with no set than a 48# bow with 2" set.

[PatM]

The over all length George is 67 1/2 in. It has another 7 in of Eiffel tower type levers so the working limbs will not be bending as far as standard working limbs !

How so?

Cut off the levers and the limbs (of the now shorter bow, with the same working limb length) will have to bend more for the same draw length?

Why would levers change that? You're actually crowding MORE bend into the limb, as DC notes.

loon, that is how I understand lever bows- you can get away with less working limb because they aren't bending as far due to the levers.

[Stick Bender]

Thanks Fellas some good thoughts here maybe I will lighteen my target weight a bit hopefully with a good heat treat I can minimise set ! Some times I have to stop thinking and just put the rasp to the wood & find out.

[BowEd]

Ritch....I feel too tillering the bow maintaining the woods integrity you'll enjoy more like Badger said if it turns out that way for ya.Heat treated hickory will surprise you though.I've got an osage at that stage right now.It's tillered retainaining a nice reflex.I started too narrow so my draw weight is'nt quite up to what I want.I've thought of piking it,but I'm gonna leave it be as it is.

[Stick Bender]

Pat & DC I was making the comparason to if the bow had no levers & had 21 in working limbs for a ttt of 53 in.  With no levers ! As opposed to levers & 67 ttt

[PatM]

Not a good comparison.

[bradsmith2010]

 

[Stick Bender]

Here is some other thoughts , Im still learning on what options are avalible when given a paticular set of options but I was thinking wrong in terms of lengething the fades I could go back into the handle in sudbury fashion & get the handle bending ever so slightly lengthing the fades, trap & heat treat, kinda sudbury static bow ?

[BowEd]

I would'nt Rich.Don't think that will help much for a longer working limb.That is set IF your handle arrow pass and width is carved in already.A top view will reveal what your concern might be.I think you'll be ok the way you got it.I personally am going to start to lengthen my handles too maybe a 1/2".

[bradsmith2010]

I think Beadman is right, get it bending the way you have it,, and see how it reacts,, if you need to make some adjustments later,, fine,, make the tips bend a bit more or into the fades a bit,, to get the draw you need without too much set,, and as suggested,,, come in at a lighter poundage to reduce stress even more,, if needed,, the bow gonna tell you what you need to do by the time you get to 3/4 draw,,
  if it was mine,, I would be shooting through the chrono at 3/4 draw as well,, it will tell you if you are on the right track or not,, if the speed starts to max out before you get to full draw, you may not have enought working limb,,

[Stick Bender]

Ok thanks fellas I will just roll with it as is with a target of 45lb @29 in ,to much thinking on my end better get to work on it before Im to old to pull it back 😳

[bradsmith2010]

yes we wanna see that thing shoot,,

[scp]

I like the way you think about the Sudbury style bow. To reduce set, I would keep the limbs as thick as possible and trap them until I get the desired draw weight.

[willie]

if the speed starts to max out before you get to full draw, you may not have enought working limb

interesting concept Brad. I have never played with a chrono as I tiller a bow. Could you explain your idea with a little more detail? About the speed maxing out?
Thanks

[bradsmith2010]

willie ,, sent pm