WA,
1) The link didn't work for me but it looks as though you are buying a hickory bow. Finishing can be many on a unbacked wooden bow. A sanding with fine sandpaper, a burnish with a smooth piece of hardwood or similar and then coats of danish oil works for me. Lots of gunstock type finishes seem to work for wooden bows.
2) TB3 is a good easy to use glue. I have used it with silk. A little kling film followed by a fabric bandage to press it on will put it on smooth. I have some watersnake skins I want to put on a bow. Should look nice. Not too sure of how best to seal snakeskin though.
3) You don't need a bow shelf or hand proetection. Just adjust your nocking point up a little higher. The arrow will kick up slightly and clear your hand. Do this after the string is shot in and brace height has been adjusted. You'll know if the nocking point is too low if you do get a slight cut on your bowhand knuckle. A little blood is no big deal!
4) Depending on your loose and shooting style and the speed of your bow I think arrows between 10lbs spine under to actual bow weight would be fine. Thus arrows of between 30 to 40 should be OK. Using full length 30 inch shafts with heavyish points and helical twist fletchings would be forgiving anyway.
5) A wooden longbow should be durable and last for quite a few years but it will not last forever. Don't let it get too wet when out. Don't keep it in a too dry place. Don't keep it strung when not in use. Ideally keep it flat or hung up from the top nock. Don't over pull it, don't let the string go without an arrow, don't hold at full draw for more than you need to. Don't have the brace height as high as a recurve. 6 to 6.5 inches should be enough. Keep the bow in a bow sock to protect it from dents and bashes when in transit. Inspect it regularlary to check it isn't developing a problem. This can be done when you put a little extra finish on or coat of beeswax polish. Change the s tring if it starts to look worn. With a you-finish bow the big question is has the bow been tillered? If not then you need to teach the bow to bend and check that the tiller is Ok with no stiff spots or weak areas. In any case gently pull the bow a few inches a few times, then a little further a few time etc until you work out to your full draw. Don't hold for long at full draw. This should gentle the bow into sue if not quite fully tillered. Hickory should be quite tough and unbreakable anyway.
6) You can expect this bow to be somewhat slower, maybe a little more stacking, simpler and more fun. You'll need to adjust and improve your style, loose etc because it will be slightly less forgiving. I think you will enjoy doing that. Try to work towards an instinctive style that works for you and just get used to the bow.
7) If the bow is hickory you don't really need to reinforce the tips. Glass bows need this as they are thin and would cut the bow string. Softer woods need it becuse the string will wear the bow. With hickory it would be decorative.
A fastflight string should be fine. Ideally make your own so that it is not overbuilt. A stock one should be OK but will be much much stronger than needed.
9) A longbow will be quieter than a recurve, much quieter as there is no string slap and no thrum. Other measures for hunting others who hunt can help you more but I think fur string silencers, a bit of leather at the arrow pass area and making sure your arrows leave quietly without hitting the bow will do the job.
10) I would reccomend that you consider two fingers under and one over as a loose. I may be biased but I think that three fingers under can put too much strain on a failry short wooden bow. A glass recurve can take it, but I am not sure if this will be good for the lower limb on your bow.
11) You may find that you have more need of a bracer. Lower brace height can mean that your old bracer is not quite up to the job.
12) Consistent hand placement on the bow is important if you are used to one with an arrow rest and formed in handle. Try to hold the bow the same way each time, with the arrow in the same place on the handle. I use the top of the handle leather as a guide, place the arrow there and then adjust my bow hand so the arrow just rests on my skin. If you arrow moves up and down each time you shoot this is the same as moving the nocking point.
Anyway, good luck and enjoy your bow.
Mark in England
