Good time to cut wood?

[Ruddy Darter]

I think there's probably a lot better places,  getting permission being the key.  I was being hopeful because it's local.

 R.D.

[Pat B]

I cut bow wood when an opportunity strikes. If I have my choice I prefer to cut whitewoods(elm, ash, hickory, oaks, etc.)early during the growing season so the bark slips exposing a good, clean back. For woods like osage, locust or mulberry I prefer  winter cutting for lower moisture content and fewer bugs, snakes and sweat...but when available mostly.

[Ruddy Darter]

Thanks Pat B.  Crikey, snakes.. Thankfully not such an issue here...fantastic creatures,  but I'm not good with snakes.   . 

R.D.

[stuckinthemud]

I keep a saw in the boot of my car. My kids got to worrying whether or not they'd be sharing the car with a random piece of tree on the school run for a while....Whereabouts are you based?

[Ruddy Darter]

I'm in Berkshire, SE UK. We got some very old yews here. The
Ankerwycke Yew where the magna carta was signed is nearby,  that's worth Googleing out of interest. If allowed a branch of that tree to make a bow that would very cool. 
 R.D.

[stuckinthemud]

I'm in S Wales.  I'm very lucky that when the mines closed the tips were reclaimed and some of them have grown over with scrub and young forest and around here those young woodlands stretch the length of the valley, with no really clear ownership so I don't feel too guilty about taking the occasional stave - the woods are primarily oak, hazel, beech, silver birch, ash and thorn trees. I've also had a chat with local farmers and found tree surgeons really helpful too.  Have you checked out Arbtalk, Woodlots, or, the the forestry commission web-sites?

[Ruddy Darter]

It's a little difficult around here,  most pockets of forest and woodlands are part of the crown estates so probably hard to get permission,  majority local is oak,  pine and birch. The Hazel is well used here and doesn't get a chance to grow to any reasonable size. I think the best bet is chatting to local tree surgeons and landscape gardeners on the chance for an apple/fruit tree which is something I'll like to have a go with, Thanks for that info I'll give that a go. 
 R.D.

[stuckinthemud]

I can appreciate the difficulties posed by landowners like the National Trust and Crown estates that's why I really appreciate the situation I am blessed with.  The networks I suggested might open up some avenues worth exploring - there are others too.  Maybe some of the other UK bowyers can suggest some locations near you to harvest in?  Alternatively, billet bows can use the shorter straight lengths you find in hedgerows and the like

[Ruddy Darter]

Thanks stuckinthemud,  this is all good food for thought.  As the saying goes 'where there's a will...there could also be a heavy fine if cut from the wrong place '    thanks again,  I'll look into all this. I should be able to get hawthorn/blackthorn for billets easy enough,  reckon I'd try for a primitive with that. (had a couple of good full length pieces a couple of years ago but messed them up,  I got a bit more savvy now hopefully)
 R.D.

[Lucasade]

I'm guessing you're in the Runnymede area then? My parents are the other side of Windsor so next time I'm heading that way I'll see if I can bring some staves/logs down.

[Ruddy Darter]

That's very kind of you Lucasade, I'd have to sort some kind of trade for that generosity. Very much appreciated mate. 

 R.D.

[Lucasade]

Del was extremely generous to me with some horn recently so I'm just passing it on 

[Ruddy Darter]

That's a cool way to be,  Thanks Del! You inspire people in a really good way. 

 R.D.
... Just had a Pacific yew stave arrive, and I think it's a nice stave to my novice eyes.  I didn't say anything incase I jinxed it,  it's a little over 85" and about 2.5",×2.5" most of the length,  2"at the smallest end, and very straight. I'm 😊
I'm going to give it more seasoning time and wondered if I could keep indoors with no heating out of direct like over the winter,  be OK?
Here is the stave.. Seems to be very clean with just a few pins on the back.

[stuckinthemud]

Looks really good to me - what you planning on doing with it? Depending on how heavy you are going, you might not have to reduce the sapwood: what state is the sapwood in - any ring violation/scratches? Yew can cope with an awful lot, the only time I lifted a splinter was where there was a teeny scratch across the crown that I didn't spot but I just polished the scratch out and it was all good  - didn't even need a patch.  I like about 1/4" (6mm) of sap-wood on a medium weight bow but I've only made a couple of yew bows.

[Ruddy Darter]

I'd say 1/2", smidgen under,  and pristine.  I'd like to get the most from the stave.. So a heavy weight warbow (140@31"draw) see for sure nearer the time, here's pics of sapwood,  an idea of pins and the sapwood condition and the only knots I can see 15" down from the small end.


 R.D.