How is this tillered?

[FilipT]

I don't have picture of bow in real life, as its clamped and put in shed to dry. I drew in Paint a simple representation of one of the limb ends.
It has big knot also.

My question is how would I tiller that?

Note: bow is supposed to be longbow, its 78,4" from tip to tip, going for full circular bend as they were in medieval times.

[Pat B]

That area will be left a little stiff. How far from the tip is it? What draw weight are you shooting for? 78.4" seem a a bit long to me.

[FilipT]

It is going to be entry into warbows, around 70, 80#. Tillered to circle like it should be, I think it will be awesome looking character English bow. I think its almost a foot away from tip, not sure, I will measure tomorrow.

[SLIMBOB]

I would heat it up and straighten it out.  Then side view tiller will be as per normal.

[nakedfeet]

I think the obvious answer is as Slimbob just pointed out. Do your best to straighten it out.  Otherwise you won't be able to get the circular shape you desire.

[bradsmith2010]

it does not have to be straightened out, will shoot fine as is,, that would just be up the the bow maker,,
circular tiller is probably the most traditional, but not necessary for a good shooting bow,, especially at a shorter draw,,
for a 76 inch bow a 32 inch draw or something close would be needed to get the bow shooting well,,, the bow will have to much mass at a shorter draw and circular tiller to shoot as well as it could,,

[SLIMBOB]

What Brad said is right, it does not have to be straightened.  My opinion, it is easier to tiller if it is straightened, and more pleasing to my eye.  In the pic, I had a similar issue.  The big knot kinked back into deflex by 30 degrees or so.  I heated it up with dry heat and straitened it out.  66 inch bendy handle.  65 lbs or so.  The tiller profile as a result, is as though there is no knot.  I could have left it as it grew and and tillered accordingly.  I just think it is more aesthetically pleasing when straight.  Personal call on it.

[FilipT]

32" is the plan. Can I really straighten this kink and should I? Wood grew that way and isn't it general agreement to follow the grain and the way wood grows, but make small adjustments if we can.

[sleek]

It is going to be entry into warbows, around 70, 80#. Tillered to circle like it should be, I think it will be awesome looking character English bow. I think its almost a foot away from tip, not sure, I will measure tomorrow.

I wouldnt worry about it in the least bit and just build the bow. Hard to ignore a thing like that but thats what I would do.

[FilipT]

I really like the shape and wish it would stay like that. I am only worried about possible breaks and such, if that area is overstrained.

[mikekeswick]

There is no reason it would break there unless you do something wrong!
Elb's shouldn't have a 'circular' tiller  - they should be elliptical. An elb has a large thickness taper. The thinner wood gets the further it can bend. Thicker= less bend. If you tiller your bow to an arco fa circle tiller you will get handshock.

[FilipT]

Yes, sorry, I meant elliptical but didn't know they use that word to describe elb tiller.

[FilipT]

Here are pictures of mentioned area. That kink is 50 cm far from the tip.

From the front side (viewed from belly). Notice the block of wood under the clamp.


Isometric view on the kink

[rps3]

I would do some heat correcting on that stave.

[SLIMBOB]

Looks thin right at the knot.
Upon closer inspection maybe not.  Thickness taper looks off but the knot appears up and thick behind it.