Inducing deflex/All reflexing/broke

[BowEd]

Helo....OK I've got a really nice hedge bow going here.Clean flat back and all propellers taken out and limbs balanced.Floor tillered to within 10#'s of my draw weight.Hav'nt braced it yet but am sure it'll pretty much go right to the short string and be in tiller.64" TTT & 62.5" NTN.I'm wanting to induce quite a bit of reflex to this bow in the end pushing the envelope because of the quality of wood on this bow.Thought I'd relieve the inner limbs a bit before inducing more reflex on outside third of limbs besides the tips flipped a bit there.
The form I have can do this for me with dry heat with a clamp on the center of the handle.I usually make R/D bows from natural shapes[knots etc.] from staves or laminated glue induced bows.I'm wondering if I'll have a problem doing the deflex inducing evenly on each limb.The deflex on this form gives about an inch to the bow.3/4" would work for me too.I can only do one side at a time.I've seen it done many a time on a stave on here and just wondering if that's a problem.I am going to just brace it to tiller and that's all before any deflexing or heat treating is done to it though to be sure of good tiller and then tiller it out.
I'm not going to use this form for the rest of the reflex though but have a half form I will use for that.I'm going to put reflex at base of flipped tips and into outer third of limbs.Pic of form and bow.Probably worrying about nothing but....

[PEARL DRUMS]

Should be just fine Ed. Personally I like the entire shape, reflex included.

[BowEd]

You mean straight out completely horrendously reflexed and no deflex?The flipped tips gave it 2.5" and then adding 4 to 6 more inches.If so I've thought about that too.This piece of hedge is quality I'd say.It could very well handle it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

No, I mean the exact shape of your caul would look very nice and perform just as well.

[BowEd]

So I'm going to assume that by doing one limb at a time will make both evenly done?

[BowEd]

I'm gonna guess here and say I'll need to put my clamp on the handle.Clamp it down to a good 3/4" deflex.It's plenty thin enough to handle that.Hit it with the heat gun on both limbs from middle of limb to handle?Not from handle to middle of the limb?That could make a difference.

[BowEd]

There's always assumptions made with heat bending especially before tillering.Losing half of what you induce is one.Giving the bow an overall reflex of 6" to 7" would only take 3.5" to 4.5" reflex induced into limbs adding to 2.5" stiff tips.Losing 50% in limbs after tillering.With 2.5" from stiff tips and 1.75"[half of 3.5"] gives a finish of 4.25".With 2.5" from stiff tips and 2.25"[half of 4.5"] gives a finish of 4.75".If the wood holds up to it out to 28".Design means everything to this deal to hold up.
Taking 3/4" off both those totals with deflex in handle gives 3.5" or 4".

[PEARL DRUMS]

I would steam the center 14-16", then deflex it into the caul. I would use dry heat to continue down each limb adding reflex.

[BowEd]

I've thought of that too at first....Steaming but don't want possibility of cracks to appear after drying.Don't know if I like that idea.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I only suggested it because you can make the bend all at once which makes it even side to side, and it will get hot enough without darkening or scorching the wood. If the wood is dry, it shouldn't crack with steam. Id say a 30-35 minute steam should just about do it.

[JonW]

Ed I just got through with one that I did just as you described. I tillered the bow to 20" draw then induced the delex/ reflex shape. When cooled I braced it and it came out perfect. Don't know if it was the proper way or not but it worked quite well.

[BowEd]

PD....Yes I know what you meant.It makes sense for sure.The biggest pot I got is only 10" wide though.Get a bigger pot eh eh eh eh.....lol.Now how is it I see guys do it with dry heat now though is what I want to know gol-darnet.That would solve my problem for sure.
JonW...You bet.This one I'll just take to only brace and that's it paying close attention to how many pounds it takes to get tips 6" past handle.Around 50#'s.That way I don't tiller my heat treatment away and I don't stress wood any before hand either.Works like a charm most times....lol.A person does'nt have to worry too much about good hedge gaining much weight after heat treatment.Not like whitewoods anyway.I'm sure I'll hear a contrary to that now.....lol.

[SLIMBOB]

Pearls idea is best I think, but I have done it with dry heat any number of times.  I generally don't use oil, but when bending the handle I coat it pretty generously.  I just heat and then turn the crank a bit.  Heat and repeat until your there.  I can usually feel that the tension on the clamp has eased up a bit.  Big thick handles may complicate it.

[BowEd]

OK Pearly.......The wood is dry for sure long time ago already.Robin had a canning pot that's 13" wide inside.I'll use the turkey fryer burner.Should work.I know for a fact if I clamp it down on that R/D form which shows an inch of deflex it won't keep that.It'll spring back to about 3/4" or so still good enough.With my 7.75" to 8" handle it'll steam bendable wood of about 5/8" thick about 2.75" from end of fade out into each limb.2.75"+2.75"+7.75"= 13".That should work.
I think I did a cedar handle long long ago that did'nt crack while drying.I'm gonna be pissed if it does though....ha ha ha.
Thanks for all your helpful comments.

[BowEd]

Good point Slimbob about the handle thickness.After I brace it to tiller I'll carve the handle in and go from there.