Warbow Flight Arrows?

[Del the cat]

I'm messing about trying to get a better flight from Warbow arrows in the 90-130# range. Probably be testing at 120# (no, not by me, can't pull that these days ...)
My theory is that spine can be substantially less than draw weight (even as low as 2/3 draw weight) due to the light point, low inertial mass and the the fact that a Warbow is rather fat in the grip, so a fair bit of flex is needed to get round it.
I've go a load of 'boo shafts of various spines on order.
Questions.
1.Thicker end of shaft at point or nock for best aerodynamics? (I'll taper the point end a little anyway)
2.With fletchings obviously small is good, but with a warbow it does need a bit to help it straighten quickly. Do we think it's better to go a bit longer than a bit higher if extra size is needed?
3. GPP, I'm thinking about the 5-6 gpp mark?
I'm hoping that these arrows will be robust enough enough to test at short range so I can hopefully find a spine that will hit the target straight at 10 yards.
Comments, thoughts and abuse all gratefully received
Del
PS. Not sure if this is best posted under Flight Bows or the general Arrows section, feel free to move it.

[mikekeswick]

I'd probably try making some barrelled wood shafts from the highest spine shafts (11/32)available. Funnily enough i'm just making a new jig for making dowel shafts and have some really good ash. I could send you some of the stiff ones if you want?
The problem with cane is that in the higher spines it is quite heavy but the main point is that you can't do any tapering. The strength is all in the outermost fibers. You can get some steel wire and heat it up redhot and use it to reduce some of the internal material though. I don't know why but I've found you need a slightly stiffer boo shaft than you do a wood shaft out of normal target bows??
1 - Thick end at the point.
2 - Try not to rely on the fletchings to 'straighten' it up. Try to get clean flight without fletching!
3 - That will depend on the bow but if you keep shooting lighter and lighter arrows through the chrony you will see what works best.
They might not be! The best bet for short range testing is to get a large nylon dumpy bag (builders merchant) and fill it with lots of soft stuff! I used to use plastic bags...but at 5p a go it might cost a few bob now

[Del the cat]

Cheers Mike, Some Ash shafts would be gratefully received
I'll PM you my address.
Supplementary Question for a bonus point.
Tab or glove for best loose. Personally I use a tab, but the guy who shoots the heavy bows wears a glove.
Del

[Badger]

Del, are you going for pure distance? What will the arrows be used for? If going for distance you may want to be around 3 or 4 grains per pound.  A shorter draw with shorter stiffer and lighter arrow might be preferable to a longer draw with longer heavier arrow.

[Del the cat]

This for pure distance, but with a Warbow for a mate of mine who shoots warbow. My own exploits in flight shooting are indeed with shorter bows and shorter draw lengths
Del

[Badger]

  Del, as for spine you are correct in that you can get by with much lower spine. If you use the rule of thumb method it will give you a rough idea. Suppose you start with a 30 arrow at 120#. Add 5# for each 1" past 28". So now you have 130#. Subtract 5# for each 1/8" before center shot. so subtract about 25# now at 105#. Subtract 5# for each 25 grains of point weight Lower than 125 grains. So if you have a 25 grain point subtract another 20#. Now at 85#. Because of the light mass of the arrow likey 75# would work fine.

[Del the cat]

Wow that's cool
Thanks for that rule of thumb. I'll copy it into my bows stuff document folder
Cheers
Del
PS. I copied it and also wrote it out as an equation it reads much better in words!