Help with Osage stave (Updated 9/4/16)

[Griffin027]

It's been a while since I've attempted a bow and only marginal success on a hickory bow. I have a straight piece of osage I cut a few months ago and is really clean for hedge. My dilemma is that the growth rings are tight. I'm talking 1/16" and less. How tolerant can a osage bow be to ring violation to be reliable? Or am I wasting my time trying to be diligent. Should I get it close enough and back it and if so what should I use for backing on hedge? I'm a perfectionist and im to the point where I just want to wing it and try. Thanks for all your help.

[burchett.donald]

  Be a perfectionist and take your time and chase one complete ring...Tight ring is good as long as it's not violated...Use a scraper instead of a drawknife if you must...
                                                                                                                   Don

[Griffin027]

Thanks for the quick reply. Also another question, should I rough shape the bow then chase the ring? Seems logical but just want to be sure. And when chasing the ring do you start on end closest to you on shave horse and work away from you or vice versa,

[burchett.donald]

  Roughing the profile before chasing will save you tons of work... I feel comfortable starting at tip away from me and coming into the ring with a razor sharp draw knife..You pic what you feel best at and use good lighting to see that ring...
                                                                                                                                         Don

[Griffin027]

Thanks a lot! 
I figured working tip away would be best so as to keep from digging into ring beneath as you draw knife rings above. I appreciate your help.

[bentstick54]

I would leave alittle extra width on the stage when you rough it out. That way if you run into a pin knot close to an edge you have alittle wiggle run if you need it. I have always pulled the draw knive towards me. I am not sure how you could work away from you unless you are using it as a scraper?

[Josh B]

I generally chase a ring and then layout the bow.  I've had a lot of hedge that the grain orientation shifted a little here and there from year to year.  That's usually not all that noticeable on thicker ring staves as it won't change that much in 4 or 5 yrs.  On thin ring stuff it can be a different story.  If you lay out the bow and then have to chase down ten rings to get a good solid ring, you could end up with grain run out all over the place.  No good that!  Josh

[Stick Bender]

I chased a very thin ringed osage stave a couple months ago only my second osage ring chase & didnt have any problems chased to 1 ring above my target with a draw knief & used a scraper to get to the ring , like was said lighting is key & a good scraper selection.

[Griffin027]

Thanks to everyone helping! So, I have all the TBB books and have obsessed about building bows. This stave I want to do right and I figured I could follow your guys expertise as I go along. I want to do this right. So I have since. Narrowed the stave in width to 2" or so and thinned the sap wood some and also started the ring I want to chase.

The stave is ok on early/late ring ratio just thin. It was cut a month ago and up till two days ago I stripped bark and sealed ends with TBIII. What should I do next? Season longer? Seal back then season? Or rough out and chase ring then seal and season?

 

[lebhuntfish]

You should go ahead and remove that sapwood while it's easier to get off. You only want the orange wood anyways. Then seal the back really good and the ends. And put it up to dry for a good while.

I sent you a pm,  I live about an hour from you.

Patrick

[BowEd]

When I was in a hurry up mode of drying on a stave I left it full width overall  3/4" thick in limbs and full depth of handle[1.5"].That's if I'm not sure of the type of bow I want to make.If I do know then I reduce it width wise to within 1/8" of finished dimensions.Let dry in a controlled area of 50% humidity or less for a month weighing it mass wise till it quits losing weight.Not that hard and it's been said before on here many times.

[crooketarrow]

  If your not willing to wait for your stave to dry natural'ly. Put it in a hot bow as low heat as possable then crack the bow lead open a 1/2 inch. Do it SLOW, Do it to fast you'll get water (wind checks)related checks from water leaving to fast.

  I use the ring right under the sap wood or all Osage. Even if I have nicer rings lower down. Being you've cut it down so low remmber now If you want to chace a ring lower down from the back. You already cut your stave down.  Now chacing a lower ring, Now only makeing your cut down stave even thinner yet.

  My advice is next time you get a green any stave. Don't cut it down leave it to dry naturally.  Rasp on somthing else untill your staves seasoned.

  If you can't wait then build you a hot box.

[crooketarrow]

 12,14 Years ago I barnish thin ring bows. But through the years I've found out using the ring right under the sap wood. It really dos'nt matter.

  If your not so sure of your bow building. Barnish it or put a backing on but again with Osage you don't have to even with thin rings.

[Griffin027]

Ok, it's been awhile but I got this stave down to one ring across the back. It's 60" overall length with 4" handle and 1 1/2" fades. Limbs at widest point of fades is 1 1/2" tapering to 1/2" nocks. I followed the grain around the knots and tapered back to my line. Does this design sound good to get a 50# bow at a 28" draw length? I've considered reflexive the limbs a bit but if I can get a reliable shooter without I wont. Opinions? I will get more pics up later. Thanks for all the help!

[ajooter]

I think 60" is a little on the short side for a 28" draw with a stiff handle.  I know it can be done but not easily.  A 60" bendy handle bow however will easily go to 28".  Recurving tips would help you out if you wanted to keep the stiff handle.

Others with more experiemce will certainly chime in.  Good luck!