Recurving board bows? Kerf cutting for recurve?

[lauderw55]

So what kind of epoxy u suggesting and is it waterproof

[PatM]

Good epoxy. Meaning slow setting 24 hour at least. Epoxy is  waterproof.

[lauderw55]

Would it be possible to give me a particular brand or product name

[PatM]

Where are you located?

[lauderw55]

Southern ohio

[PatM]

 You can likely just order some Smooth On or get some System Three, WEST etc.
  Check for boatbuilding or woodworking shops in your area.

[lauderw55]

Do u kno if smooth on needs heat to cure because currently don't have a heat box 

[PatM]

It doesn't.   A higher cure temperature makes it more resistant to future high temperatures and for most epoxies it also increases their ultimate strength.

[Nate]

What a neat concept! I thought the whole kerf bend thing was more of a theoretical possibility but it's cool to see it in use. Reading your accounts makes it seem pretty straight forward and I love the look with the contrasting wood. Thanks for sharing!   Nate

[bubby]

With smooth on if you mix 2 parts a to 1 b it increased the heat resistance without a hot box

[Onebowonder]

I did some initial searching but have yet to find a straight forward Build-Along type example of this method for re-curving tips.  Is there one that anybody here would recommend?

OneBow

[PatM]

See page one. If that doesn't make it clear then no book on the subject will either.

[Onebowonder]

See page one. If that doesn't make it clear then no book on the subject will either.

You might have just said "Nope, I don't know of any such Build Along"...

Obviously, I read the first page of the thread sir.  I did not feel like it was the exhaustive last word on how to do the job so I asked if anyone had a Build Along they would recommend.  Some of the items I'd like to know that were not addressed in the first page of the thread were as follows:

1] Are there particular wood species this method is best suited for?
2] What approximate range of dimensions will it work for?
3] Are there any particular suggested precautions when doing this method?  (i.e. - ...things that might have gone wrong before for someone that has used the method that they might be able to advise another on as a forewarning.)
4] At what point in the build process should this method be implemented?  (i.e. - ...at floor tiller?  ...completed tiller?  ...untillered blank stave or board perhaps?)
5] Can this method be utilized to recover some of the effect of set that has occurred in an older bow?
6] A bandsaw was mentioned as the preferred tool for the work.  What TPI blade is suggested for this work?  Will a Japanese pull saw work as an effective substitute?
7] What-ever-else tips might be locked away in the mind of someone that has actually used this technique a few times previously that they might be able to share.

I've never used it, but would like to try it this weekend.  If you've done it and can answer such questions, PLEASE respond.

OneBow

[PatM]

A build along is unlikely to address many of those questions. There seems to be a real resistance to learning by doing these days.

[Nate]

I've never used this technique but now I can't wait to try! Love the look of it!