Bow from veneers?

[wizardgoat]

I have a friend who works in a shop that makes skateboards.  Its all hard maple, and the vaneers are about 1/16" thick.  We're going to try and glue up some strips, make a couple bows and see how they work.
I'll probably go for a wide limb pyramid design, in hopes that the tiller will be close right out the gates. how crucial is it to pre taper lams for a bow like this?
The lams are very thin and already perfect for gluing.
Is it a game ender if more than one lam is revealed on the belly? 

[mullet]

I'll watch this one. I've got some Hard Maple and Ipe lams I was thinking of doing the same thing with when I got time.

[Springbuck]

  I wouldn't try to pretaper lams, just don't get crazy with R/D or recurves.  Layers can run off on the belly as you thickness taper just like growth-rings can, but if you are making a pyramid bow, that shouldn't be a problem.  You can even lay up your fades into the handle stairstep style with veneer slats before gluing on a handle block, but it WOULD be good to get a power-lam in there if you can so your handle can't pop off.  Less likely to if laid up with veneers, but power-lams are the thing for this.

 Most veneer is too thin, but 1/16" should work.  Get lots of good clamps, though, and the right glue; every layer is a chance for glue line failure to occur.

Lastly, just like any backing, DO NOT SETTLE for less than perfect grain.  1/16" maple backing had darn well better be perfect.

[JacksonCash]

This will probably look pretty cool if it works. You should back it with grip tape!

[wizardgoat]

Thanks guys. Spring buck, wouldn't the "handle stair step" handle/ fade area already have power lams if all I'm using is these slats?
We probably won't glue on a handle, just a bunch more slats.
We're toying with the idea of it being a skateboard inspired bow and using the forms they use for skateboards to get a little recurve.
Maybe a grip tape backing? Hah
Jackson, was writing that as you posted!

[Hamish]

What type of glue are you going to use? Titebond 3 is an excellent glue in general, but you can get lifts at the glue line eg near the fades, and perhaps where a non tapered lam is exposed on the belly.
This won't be an issue with urac, or a proper bowmaking epoxy.

[Onebowonder]

I have somewhat limited experience, ...but what I have has taught me that it is quite important to taper out your middle, aka core, lams in order to be sure to have a fairly consistent thickness of both the belly and back lam wood.  Also, use of a tapered 'power lam' glued into the core that protects the glued on handle region from bending is a very good plan.

I'm not sure what glues are used in skate board building, but Unibond 800 has worked very well for me in laminated bows.


OneBow

[bubby]

Ryan i think it should work, six lams 1-3/4"-2" wideshould get you around 50# . if it was me i would recurve the tips or atleast a hard flip, I've used unibond but now that I'm useing smooth on thats all i would use , just glue a bunch of strips on for the handle and feather the fades you should be fine, bub

[wizardgoat]

Awesome, thanks guys.
We're going to glue up a few to experiment
Not sure what glue they use, but I do have some smooth on.

[PatM]

They are said to use Titebond 4.

[DC]

Is there any chance you can glue them up on the factory forms(if they're long enough) using the same glue as they do. That stuff has got to be tough enough.

[Stixnstones]

If u skated back in the day , remember Lance Mountain always had primitive cave drawings on his decks. I think the spirit is there for u to make this happen, and if anyone could it would b u.

[PatM]

Remember veneers are rotary cut which generally seems to involve steaming the whole log, not sure how that's going to impact the wood properties.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Would a narrow, deep profile ELB type design reveal less glue line feathering on the belly side? Also, I assume your putting a decent grained backing on it?

[wizardgoat]

Thanks guys, yes I grew up skateboarding so it would be a cool project for me and some friends.
Ill have to see the wood in person, I know grain orientation and clean wood is important for skateboards, but just in case  I have some boo and hickory backing strips collecting dust.
I'd prefer to use all maple if possible.
I'll post what we come up with