Hickory backing for red oak

[ccase39]

I have made several board bows for some family members this Christmas. A close friend of hers has a grown daughter who has a new boyfriend they really like who are coming for Christmas. My wife thought it would be nice to build him one so he doesn't feel "left out" I have a couple of unfinished projects one of which is a roughed out red oak board bow that I set aside a year or so back because at floor tiller it was obvious that it was going to turn out light. I had planned on backing it with Lenin at the time but never got around to it. I figured I would try and use it if I can. I have a couple of strips of hickory backing and wanted to ask how well it will work with red oak. Oh apparently he found out about it and mentioned to someone how nice it would be to have a snake skin backing. I have some faux snake skin so that is as far as I go. The red oak doesn't have any set. I haven't even put nocks in for the tillering string. Up until now I have only used bamboo backing. If I am going to take the time to flatten a piece of boo it is going to be for me so I was hoping hickory would add a little strength. Thoughts?

[bubby]

Go for it,  a heavy1/8" and round the edges really good you should be fine

[Birdman]

I have one of those glued up and cut out right now.  Some posts here expressed concern about Hickory overpowering the red oak.  I just finished a maple backed red oak board bow.  It shoots nice with little set.  I would suggest a bend thru the handle design for the hickory backed red oak.

[ccase39]

Sounds good thanks. Set was my main concern. Think I should put a bit of reflex in it?

[Birdman]

That question exceeds my pay grade.  Hopefully one of the better bowyers here will chime in.  Sorry I can't help with the reflex question.

[bubby]

What are the dimensions of the red oak and layout

[ccase39]

What are the dimensions of the red oak and layout

72 inches total length 1-3/8 wide to 1/2 inch at tips. The profile is 5/8 at the fade straight tapered to 3/8 at tips. I cant remember what I was planning to do with it at the time. I am thinking of cutting it down to make it 66" total length. I had already put a 9 inch riser on it.

[sieddy]

I think Hickory would be a much better backing than 'Lenin'.
True his hide has been well preserved, but I doubt the Kremlin will let you have any. 
(sorry couldn't resist that one!) I hope it turns out well for you and I'll look forward to seeing pics when its done. :-)

[ccase39]

I think Hickory would be a much better backing than 'Lenin'.
True his hide has been well preserved, but I doubt the Kremlin will let you have any. 
(sorry couldn't resist that one!) I hope it turns out well for you and I'll look forward to seeing pics when its done. :-)

Ha! Just caught that!

[Pat B]

I've made a few hickory backed red oak and had my best luck with a wide(2 1/2") pyramid. It is 66" long and I added about 4" of reflex at glue up and it had held 1" after lots of shooting. Actually that bow seems to be indestructible.

[ccase39]

I've made a few hickory backed red oak and had my best luck with a wide(2 1/2") pyramid. It is 66" long and I added about 4" of reflex at glue up and it had held 1" after lots of shooting. Actually that bow seems to be indestructible.

For the reflex could I do curves off the tip like an R/d bow or can I simply put a couple of 3-4 inch high blocks under the tips and crank the clamps down in the center of the riser. For this bow I would prefer it not to have curves as I want it to look like a longbow.

[LittleBen]

I've made a few hickory backed red oak and had my best luck with a wide(2 1/2") pyramid. It is 66" long and I added about 4" of reflex at glue up and it had held 1" after lots of shooting. Actually that bow seems to be indestructible.

For the reflex could I do curves off the tip like an R/d bow or can I simply put a couple of 3-4 inch high blocks under the tips and crank the clamps down in the center of the riser. For this bow I would prefer it not to have curves as I want it to look like a longbow.

That would work just fine as you described.

[Pat B]

That's how I did it, Case. I used pieces of 2x4 on edge and clamped the handle to the table. If you pre-tiller the belly so you get a nice, even bend at floor tiller or just beyond your glue-up will end up with a nice even bend after glue-up.

[ccase39]

That's how I did it, Case. I used pieces of 2x4 on edge and clamped the handle to the table. If you pre-tiller the belly so you get a nice, even bend at floor tiller or just beyond your glue-up will end up with a nice even bend after glue-up.

Great thanks Pat. That is exactly what I will do.