reworking a warbow

[Del the cat]

I normally leave a bit of a bulge at the grip.
Del

[bershirebowmen]

O.k. thanks Del, this was quite pronounced before reduction and I think better now. I've stopped stressing about it and feel a little more optimistic, I think I've been snowballing issues the more I stressed. Took a step back and made a plan of action as recommended and  came to the conclusion I may not get it perfect but as long as I take it steady I will improve the bow more to my liking, not dreading working on it but looking forward to it now.( I swapped my coffee for tea which I think helps when pondering. )
Thanks again and will post pic and vid with work on the tiller.

Berkman.

[bershirebowmen]

Here's where I am on the tiller after my first original removal of wood, a skim off both sides and the belly with a surform two thirds of the way up both limbs (including centre) as even as I could. Its on a 25" draw. The outer limbs have not been touched. Im working from the centre outwards to even out the limbs and then draw it to 30 after and see what it looks like from there. The top limb is to the right.Thanks for any input or advice.
(Just using a scraper from here on)
Berkshirebowmen.

[Del the cat]

We need to see the unstrung bow shape, as presumably that kink near the left tip is there in the stave anyway?
It looks like the inner and middle of each limb isn't doing much yet.
take thickness measurements every 6" just to help check for even thickness taper and rough symmetry (lower limb should be a tad thicker at all points) Even if you don't worry too much about the actual measurement, locking the calipers at one point and then running them along the limb allows you to watch the gap between the jaws and the bow open up as you go along and so helps show any thick spots.
You can get digital vernier calipers pretty cheap (about £30), and mechanical ones even cheaper (about £6).
You really need to get a scale on there to measure draw weight, fishing scales are relatively cheap online.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/301255889005?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=kwd-75951445986&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80
Del

[bershirebowmen]

Thanks Del,
 That bottom limb end is a slight natural kink compounded by a tadge of set, I'll get a pic of it soon as i can. The limbs are pretty even in depth...i dont know if you can see in the pic but ive got it marked off every six inches with a strips of masking tape folded over the sapwood edge and marked a dot with a pen. I've got fishing scales, although I'm not going for a weight, by the time I get the limbs working even it might be near what i want, im drawing it to the side of my face as it is and i want a heavy bow to get on top of, as long as its working properly. Ill get that pic..
Berkshirebowmen

[bershirebowmen]

Here's a couple of pics, the sapwood propellers a fair bit on this bow, as it does at this end, so heartwood is a little varied viewed from both sides.(the bow isn't strung) and me drawing it to 31+, hard work and a bit shakey, gave me a rope burn pulling that down 
I've taken a fair bit off so you can apreciate how whip ended it was.
Berkman.

[Del the cat]

That bend looks pretty good (allowing for the kink at the left tip) 
Del

[WillS]

Your hair has given your identity away   I couldn't think of anybody else from your area who had a Poletti of that weight!

I think the tiller looks good.  There still seems to be something odd happening mid-limb on both sides, but it doesn't look problematic.  That's the sort of thing that softens up as it shoots anyway.

Nicely done mate.

[bershirebowmen]

Thanks Del  , I'm wearing a wig WillS 
Yep agreed, I'm going to lightly scrape the mid lower limb to get a bit more movement (and I think that kink will show less (?)) , I can see where the wood's a little thick there. And reduce around that knot area on the mid top limb and get some more movement and I reckon that will be just right, not too much though I think the wood has got used to bending around there. Should weigh around 155+@31" I reckon now.I was a little worried I took to much off the centre but it looks o.k. to me. Well happy days...I didn't muck it up after all, 

Berkman.

[WillS]

 I'm scouring your photos for signs of a Shillelagh, then I'll know for sure...   

[bershirebowmen]

(Lol, that lot all split to blazes,errr...someone told me,  )
I was wondering what ideal arrow weight for this bow, I got some stout 80g-83g with type 10's, sound about right?,
Berkman

[WillS]

What weight are the Type 10s?  If they're Hector's they'll be quite chunky, and if they're made by Milos they'll be super duper light - or that could be just me, cos I keep nagging him to make them lighter.... He made me an 11g half inch Type 16 the other day.  Phwoarr!  Great on light aspen shafts, but a bit twitchy when you put them on something like ash or birch.

155lb is a good 30lb above what I shoot though, so I'm "shooting in the dark" so to speak. 

80g sounds reasonable for roving or target shooting though.  60g is still safe out of something like 180lb, so you've got plenty of room for experimenting.

[bershirebowmen]

Thanks WillS, I got Hector Coles. Rather them a little heavy ( 80g-83g is the finished 6 arrows with them on). Took a bit off where I said and burnt in an arrow pass, I'll have a look again tomorrow but I reckon it's good enough for me now. A happy conclusion. I don't think there's much I can do about the kink in the bottom limb tip, atleast there is less stress there now. Happy I managed to keep the profile as round as I did. I won't do any steam straightening, probably mess up what I got..quit while I'm ahead.  Thanks for all the help and advice, spared me taking a longer road to get to a poorer destination. 

Berkman.