To straighten or to recurve?

[Bowyer Wannabe]

Hi, I have an Ash stave that has a natural recurve in one of its ends.
What would be least stressful for the wood: to straighten the existing natural recurve or to create an artificial recurve on the other end of the stave?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Matters not.

[WillS]

How big is the natural recurve?  Depending on length, size, amount etc it can sometimes be more beneficial to straighten it out. 

If it looks like the sort of recurve you'd actually try and create, then I'd say go ahead and match it with the other one.  If it's an awkward, long soft curve out of the handle that takes it a good 3 or 4 inches above level, matching it and then trying to tiller will be very difficult (if you are a beginner!)

Photos, as always, will let people give a more detailed opinion.

[Bowyer Wannabe]

Hi, thanks for your replies.
It's a small bend in the stave.
I thought that trying to straighten a natural recurve would put stress on the back of the bow. So, I guess creating a matching recurve on the other end would be better for the wood, but more work for me.
The wood is still relatively green (cut it a week ago), and I hope this would make either approach a bit safer.

[PEARL DRUMS]

It takes the same amount of heat to straighten a bend as it does to put that same bend in.

[DC]

A related question. If I heat some reflex into a bow there is a chance that some of it will pull out. If I heat some deflex into it is there any chance it will come out? It doesn't seem like it would but sometimes these things fool me.

[Bowyer Wannabe]

It takes the same amount of heat to straighten a bend as it does to put that same bend in.

Yes, but in order to straighten a bend, all you need to do is clamp your stave to a straight board, while creating a matching recurve requires building a special jig that matches the existing recurve. More work that way.

[Pat B]

I'd rather make both limbs straight and add whatever reflex or recurve to it later with heat.
 DC, I don't think deflex will be worked out because the stave is bending towards the deflex and not pulling away from it like with reflex.

[DC]

Thanks Pat, I thought so but it kept nagging at me.
BW In order to straighten it you have to bend it farther than you want because of spring back so clamping it to a straight board won't quite do it. You need to put in a few shims to bend it a little farther. In order to put reflex in you don't need a fancy jig, you just need a straight board and a couple of shims. Noticing a similarity here

[Pat B]

I'll use a reflex form to make both limbs even and to add reflex. I have a separate form for recurves.

[PEARL DRUMS]

A rag wadded up makes for a nice fulcrum when you don't have cauls to us. Place it under the area you want the apex of your reflex to be.

[Oglala Bowyer]

For subtle recurves I get the bow to floor tiller, clamp it and heat it on the back of an old wooden chair with a rounded back.  Works great.  On a separate note, if your going to invest time into a bow, you might as well invest some time into making a jig for future builds JMHO.

[OTDEAN]

Just getting it bending equally with the other limb end and everything else is just for fancy folk.