delaminating osage

[Dances with squirrels]

I don't know Chris... those razor blades aren't real big. Look at it compared to the size of the stave, and look how deep it's inserted into the wood. The crack surely goes deeper than that blade will reach too. I bet it goes past the middle of the stave.

[Bryce]

Glue it up, clamp it, forget about it. If it makes a bow, GREAT! If it doesn't.... Oh well. There's always more staves:)

[Hamish]

 I'm a sucker for lost causes. I'd probably start floor tillering it, as doing so is going to start to give you a better idea of what you are dealing with in terms of depth of the shake/crack. When the stave becomes more flexible, you should be able to open that crack up a bit more  work glue deeper in the crack, then clamp.

Like one of the guys suggested you could instead work down to below the crack for a new back. If it becomes apparent that the stave is going to be too light for the bow you want, flatten the back and glue on a hickory backing.

[Josh B]

I've never had any luck glueing side checks in ring porous woods.  They always seem to split in the early growth and the crumbly nature of that part of the ring just doesn't hold a glue line for me.  I have managed to glue side checks in ERC and other junipers though.  Josh

[Aaron H]

Blackhawk-  that razor blade it's probably at least 3/4" deep, and the limb is about 1 3/8" wide. 

Non backed- no twist to speak of in the stave, although I did steam it too add reflex

DWS- the stave was cut in January '13 and dried slowly, I have also got a few other bows from this same tree with no  delamination problems

Brad Smith- I may have enough room under it too make a light bow, but was hoping for something with some poundage.

Thank you guys, but I think I will try to glue it and clamp it and keep it for myself. I have got a number of hours into it, so I might as well see what happens with it. I will keep you updated, although it may sit in the corner till I get my brothers bow finished.
Aaron

[Aaron H]

Josh, sometimes I'm hard headed and just have to find out for myself.

So, since I have decided to glue, I have another question.  Unibond 800 or super glue?

[Josh B]

Lol! I'm much the same way.  Unfortunately, I don't have a good answer for you.  I've only ever tried superglue and I've never used unibond at all.  Josh

[Bryce]

This isn't quite a delam, but it has a nice crack that runs out the fades and the sides of the limb. I used 'tite chairs' glue and clamped it up. Bow shoot great and has been put threw its paces.
66" long 65#@28" exercised out to 30"
Not to say that you will get as lucky as me but yah just never know sometimes.

[bradsmith2010]

if you go down past the crack and have enough for  light bow,, sinew would give you the weight you want,, I would try glue clamping first as suggested,,

keep in mind you would shorten the bow to sinew back it,, maybe to 56 inches for a 28 inch draw,, this would increase the weight as well,,

[Marc St Louis]

Have you tried clamping it to see if it closes up under pressure?

[Dances with squirrels]

Use thin viscosity superglue. It will wick itself down to the very essence of that crack. Far beyond what you can presently see. Fill it. Let it dry. Repeat until the crack is filled. If that seems to be taking too long, after several application of thin, it will be ok to use thicker viscosity superglue at that point to help fill the void. I've had good success with such repairs. I would NOT clamp it.

[bradsmith2010]

If Marc has  had success with clamping,, I would try that,,

[lebhuntfish]

I've personally had success with warming it up with a heat gun before applying the glue. Not as hot as you would to bend it but good and warm. Then fill it with glue and clamp the heck out of it. It has worked several times for me and some friends. Even the few that broke didn't break where the repair was done.
Patrick

[simson]

x2
like Patrick said, I would try exactly like that

[Dances with squirrels]

The reason I said I wouldn't clamp it is because I've fixed many such checks/cracks without doing it and they were permanent fixes. If it went back together with light to moderate pressure, clamping shut a razor thin check would be fine, but I certainly wouldn't concern myself with closing that gap if it seemed stubborn.