Pheasant feather backing application

[Josh B]

I've been planning to do this for a few months and just now got around to it.
First things first, we need a bow to glue the feathers to.  This is a scrap of Hop hornbeam that was destined for Pappy's fire pit until I rescued it.  52 1/2" NTN 50#@26" eastern woodland style.  If I can get it done in time, this should be on the raffle table at this years classic.
Next, you need some feathers.  The source of these feathers is a tanned pheasant hide.  One of these hides will provide enough plumage for an entire flat bow or several of these little skinny bows.
You will need a good waterproof glue.  I'm using tite bond III this time.  I used Elmers wood glue MAX last time and it worked fine.  Scissors will come in handy for trimming the feathers.  A bowl of water to clean the glue off your fingers and a towel or rag to dry your hands is a necessity.  If you plan on using the tail feathers, you will want to shave the quill down on the feather.  I use a flake of obsidian or chert for this.  This one is a piece of chert from the KS flinthills.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!  If you decide to do this project at the kitchen table while your wife is at a gymnastics tournament or some similar situation.  Be sure to take all possible precautions to protect Momma's carpet and furniture.  I have also taken the precaution of bribing my youngest two children into not telling Mom what Dad did all day and where.  We'll see how that works out tomorrow when the kids talk to Mom.

[Josh B]

Now that we've gathered our supplies and sidetracked the kids for a few hours with Hunger games movies.   Let's get started!  I start by lightly sanding the bows back with 220 grit and then wiping it down with alcohol to help ensure good adhesion.
Next I pluck out the tail feathers and trim the quill so that the feather will lay flat to the bows back.  I'm using a flake of chert for this, but if your careful you can use an exacto knife to do the job.

[Josh B]

Now that the tail feathers are prepared, slather a heavy coat of glue where the tail feathers are going to be placed. DO NOT COVER THE ENTIRE BACK OF THE BOW WITH GLUE!  We will only apply a dab of glue as we go.  Otherwise it will all be dry before you get to it.  This is not a quickly done project.  It took me over ten hrs just to apply the feathers the first time.  This time took about half as long, but its still not a quick and easy project.

[Josh B]

This is only the second time that I've done this and both times the tail feathers were a pain in the posterior.  After those are good and secure, it goes much easier.  I use the feathers as they are on the bird.  I rip a clump out, working from the tail to the head, trim off and save the last inch or so of each feather(gets rid of the fluffy part of the feathers) and then apply them in the same order as they are on the bird.  I apply them in alternating rows of two and three, staggered like bricks.  After you place a row, give it a couple minutes for the glue  to set and then add a dab of glue for the next row.  You have to spread the glue up onto the feathers in the previously applied row.  You must be careful to spread the glue far enough up the feathers to get complete adhesion on your new row, but not so far that you spread glue beyond what will be covered..

[Josh B]

One nice thing about using a pheasant for this is there are so many different colored/patterned feathers on each bird that your options are limited only to your imagination.  I tried to follow the natural pattern and transitions of the different feathers as they're found on the bird, but their really is no end to the possibilities.  I just keep laying the feathers to a point that I know will be covered by the handle wrap and then start squishing out any extra glue and make a few minor adjustments here and there.  Once the glue is dry, I then clean up the edge with an exacto knife.  I do this before I proceed to the other limb so that i don't inadvertently damage/tear off my hard work.

[Josh B]

Once you get the edge somewhat cleaned up, it will show just how good of a job you've done so far.  If it's not quite to your liking, too bad.  You don't want to try and fix it now.  Remember your mistakes and make the next on better.  Now that the first limb is glued and trimmed, it's time to do the other limb.  Do it the same way and be sure to pay attention to the pattern of the first limb and do your best to match it with the second limb.  I've got this one as far as I can go for now.  Now I need to let it sit and get rid of the excess moisture it gained from the glue.  I'll start back on it in 4 or 5 days.  Thanks for following along so far!  Josh

[tattoo dave]

Lookin good Josh! Thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to try a feather backing for some time. Turkey season is right around the corner, I'm thinking a turkey feather backing is in the works for sure now!

Tattoo Dave

[Pat B]

Very cool, Josh. Very cool! 

[turtle]

Very nice. Ya going to be there to put it on the table in person?

[wizardgoat]

Thanks for doing this josh, this is on my list for sure

[Josh B]

Thanks Dave!  I hope you have some nice Merriam feathers to back a bow with in the near future.
Thanks Pat!
Thanks Steve!  Unfortunately, I'll have to mail it in.
Ryan hopefully this will help you along a bit.  I'm sure this is not the only way or even a good way to go about feather backing, but it does work for me. 
If you have any questions or need more in depth explanations, I'll do my best to help.  If anybody has any tips or suggestions of a better way to accomplish this, they would certainly be welcome.  Josh

[Josh B]

It's been a couple days so I am now going to seal the feathers.  I'm not sealing the entire bow, just the feather backing.  There's still gonna be some residual moisture in the wood that needs to dissipate for another couple days.  I'm sealing the feathers at this stage so that it is easier to clean up the edge of the backing without tearing pieces of the feathers off and also to keep wood dust out of the feathers when I finish sand the bow.  I seal the feathers by applying six coats of tru-oil with a 45 minute pause between coats and then let it cure overnight.  Tomorrow I will lightly steel wool with the flow of the feathers to knock down the high spots.  Don't cut the finish down to the feathers with the steel wool.  This is the stage where you will find out how good you glued down the feathers.  If you did a poor job, you will have feathers floating to the top of your finish. If that's the case, wait for the tru-oil to get tacky and try to push the feathers back down with the cloth that you applied the oil with.  The tru-oil will eventually hold them down, but it takes several series of coats to accomplish it.  A note on tru-oil, this is the second feather backing I've done and I used tru-oil both times.  The tru-oil really darkens the feather backing and subdues much of the iridescent colors(blues and greens).  The next one I do, I will try spray poly acrylic.  I would of this time, but I am concerned that it might crack over time and I have a limited time to finish this one.  I'll try to snap some pics later today or tomorrow.  Thanks following along so far. Comments, questions and suggestions are welcome as always.  Josh

[Aaron H]

Very cool Josh, thanks for the build along

[Josh B]

Thanks Aaron!  I'm gonna be too busy to work on it for a couple days.  Hopefully I can finish it up this weekend.  Thanks again!  Josh

[Danzn Bar]

The next one I do, I will try spray poly acrylic. 

Hey Josh,
I've done a few bows with feather backings....I made a mistake one time of gluing down the feathers with a softer material than the finish I used and the finished cracked when it was completely cured.  The feathers put the finished further away from the back of the bow and being a softer material under the finish it was bound to crack on me.
Not saying yours will crack...just providing my experience. 
By the way love those pheasant feathers. 
DBar