Author Topic: Tillering with the long string on recurves  (Read 5989 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2015, 08:10:40 am »
Have it low braced and tillered before you bend hooks in. Once the hooks are in you pop a string right back on. Tweak the tiller and reduce the weight. I push/pull them all to brace.

I tried push/pull on a recurve and couldn't pull it off. I was kind of pushing at the base of the recurve and couldn't push and get the string in the nock at the same time. Any idea what am I doing wrong?

The bow has to be more horizontal than a straight bow does to push/pull. The bottom hook needs to be buried right into your foot's arch. The just do your thing. The only bow I cant push/pull is my recent Grumley. Stringers are fine if they hook up beyond your string grooves as mentioned above. You don't want to use the style with a pad that pushes on the limb and socket on the other end, its way un-even pressuere and nasty for the limbs.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

mikekeswick

  • Guest
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2015, 08:25:04 am »
Another trick instead of floor tillering/longstring I use is to clamp the handle in my vice and flex the limbs with my hand. That way you get a real good eyeball on whats happening.
For first stringing a peg board is best once the weight/reflex starts going up. You get great control with them and it's very easy. Failing that step through works well with recurves (if done correctly!).

Offline Blaflair2

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,042
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2015, 10:14:23 am »
Pearly, those grumleys made me flinch every time. It seems like it just wants to fly out of your hand. I agree with burying it on ur foots arch. The narrower the bow I find it's more squirrely
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline Sidewinder

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,946
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2015, 10:41:59 am »
I really like the stringer. Its safe, distributes the stress evenly and allows you to brace it at higher weights without getting a hernia. You might try it. It does require you leave your tips a little longer which you can cut down later when your done with tillering and you have reached your target weight.
"You know a tree by the fruit it bears"   God

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,637
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2015, 10:49:52 am »
I also use a cup type stringer to brace a new recurve or at least until it is a manageable weight. You still have to be careful that the bow doesn't twist or spin in your hand as you put tension on the stringer.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Springbuck

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,545
Re: Tillering with the long string on recurves
« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2015, 06:19:02 pm »
  PearlDrums mentioned my best method.  Get it roughed out pretty close to tiller first, then bend the recurves.

  The other thing is, I don't love floor tillering.  I can do it, just doesn't come naturally.  One thing I like about shorter bows, recurves, and mollies, is I can often spread my 74" wingspan, grasp the limbs and "floor-tiller" it by bending it slightly over my knee.  Brace the handle on the front of your knee under the kneecap, grab as far out as you can and flex it with a wide-hands rowing motion.  Then flip it and repeat.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2015, 10:01:34 pm by Springbuck »