Season tests (ocean spray)

[BigWapiti]

I've been doign some testing to find how best to season shoots to keep checking at a minimum.  Curious if anyone else has found similar results. 

I had a large bunch of ocean spray shoots.   Took three random samples from my bunch and tried three different methods - 1) bark on, 2) bark off and 3) bark off but leaving a 2" section of bark on at the ends.  All were bundled and tied to a separate broom stick.

This was by no means a very scientifically laid out test .

Bark off
Bad checking - so bad, that I now have only one from my sample left, the rest had to be culled out.

Bark On
Showing some checking at the ends - not sure how bad but will know more once I scrape the bark off

Bark off, leaving 2" of ends still covered with bark
Amazingly, there is less checking than with bark on

I found this to be interesting - though more testing is probably necessary to really be sure its the case.  But it SEEMS that scraping all but the last 2" of bark from the shoot helps reduce checking.  Have any of you found similar with this wood, or any others?

Mike

[Pat B]

Mike, I don't have access to ocean spray but on hardwood shoots I collect I cut the shoots extra long, leave the bark on and wrap them in bundles(making sure they are straight in the bundles) and set them aside to cure. If there is checking in the ends the extra length helps by removing the checked ends. Also by leaving them long I can adjust the spine by moving the shoot one way or the other on the spine tester.
  With the sourwood shoots I use mostly, I can remove the bark when green and most won't check but I have enough shoots from years past that getting seasoned shoots isn't a problem for me. The bark is easier to remove from green shoots but I guess I like to do it the hard way.     Pat

[BigWapiti]

Yeah, I guess thats what I was working to find Pat.  I like removing the bark when green as it proves much easier.  So I got to wondering if leaving the last couple inches of bark intact on each end would help.  It seems to be the case.  This would be the best of both worlds if it continues to pan out.   I can remove a larger percentage of bark while its green; only having to remove the last couple inches once its finally cured.  And, with most of the bark off it will probably cure out much quicker.

I also have been cutting them long for the same reasons, but the same would apply by leaving the ends un-barked.

My curiousity was that if anyone else has given this a try with similar results -

It kind of makes sense why it checks less, but ...  nature does what nature does.

[Pat B]

Mike, I believe a lot would depend on the material used(ard the R/H of your area). Some hardwood shoots will check shortly after removing the bark if too green. Viburnum(specifically V. purnifolium) is one wood that will check. In my experience rose will also but I have heard from others that it won't.
   Bark is waterproof. By removing it, the shoots will dry faster...and thats why some shoots check...drying too fast.     Pat

[Sparrow]

Done alot of oceanspray.I scape all the bark off and dip 2 inches of each end into paint,when the paints dry I bundle them.Usually no checking.  Frank

[BigWapiti]

Frank, 
That would fall in with my keeping the 2" of bark on then I suppose.  I was having some tough time with checking - bark on or bark off.  Not sure why keeping 2" of bark on the ends helps (or 2" of paint in your case) but it really does seem to. 

My post was to share the info.  Thanks for the confirmation.

-m

[David Long]

That's a really interesting experiment Mike. I found a similar effect while trying to dry lilac. Take a piece 1.5 inches by 24 inches and scrape all except 2 inches of bark. That piece of wood will not check at all until you remove the rest of the bark, then wammo the whole thing is split within a half hour. I cannot explain this, but speculate that it has something to do with water transmission and the roll bark plays in that. FWIW, my red oisier shafts never check no matter how I do things.
Dave

[DanaM]

Same here with the red osier, peel em immediately.

[billy]

I prefer to leave the bark on any hardwood shoot that I cut.  I've used oceanspray and syringa, and found cracking was severe if the bark was peeled immediately.  I've also noticed with dogwood that if you leave the bark on and let it season slowly, the wood seems to be much harder and denser once it dries.  If the bark is peeled off while it's green and allowed to season that way, the wood seems much softer and weaker.  I don't know why that's the case, but it is.  So I NEVER peel the bark of my shoots until they are totally dry. 

[BigWapiti]

...scrape all except 2 inches of bark. That piece of wood will not check at all until you remove the rest of the bark, then wammo the whole thing is split within a half hour. I cannot explain this, but speculate that it has something to do with water transmission and the roll bark plays in that.

Thanks Dave - I was finding it rather interesting myself.   I have another test going now with winter cut wood - seems to be going down the same path.  Interesting indeed.

I prefer to leave the bark on any hardwood shoot that I cut.  I've used oceanspray and syringa, and found cracking was severe if the bark was peeled immediately.  ...   If the bark is peeled off while it's green and allowed to season that way, the wood seems much softer and weaker.  I don't know why that's the case, but it is.  So I NEVER peel the bark of my shoots until they are totally dry. 

You may want to try peeling all but the last couple inches of each end -- I'd be interested in what others find in their areas, humidity, etc.  Its just interesting that these samples are not checking, or checking very minimally - even compared to the fully 'barked' shoots.   I will have to check out your thought of the wood not being as strong when peeled though - that is a good point to consider and learn.

Thanks.  Let me know if you try it.

Mike

[david w.]

I debarked my rose shoots but i left a few inches of bark on the end and there was no checking at all.