Now that I've got the bow braced I can check the string alignment. This can be a frustrating set back on an otherwise cooperative bow. Luckily on this bow the stave was pretty darn straight and as I check the alignment I find that the string passes pretty much directly through the center of the handle. I left the handle full width until this point in case I needed to offset it slightly to one side to compensate.
Since I like what I saw with the alignment check I can finally reduce the handle. I like to do it at this point as opposed to later because Even though it theoretically shouldn't effect the tiller of the bow I don't really like the idea of taking off a lot of wood anywhere on the bow when the bow is well tillered and close to the target weight. First I freshen up my lines on the back to show me where to take off wood. This layout is just to get me on the right track with my handle shape I will reduce it to be smaller than these dimensions when it's all done.
I hog off some wood with my microplane and get it down to the lines to start with.
Then I start rounding it off. I like to move it around taking little bits off here and there and reduce it as a whole, checking as I go, instead of working it down to the final dimensions in one spot and then trying to make the other side match. That's a recipe for a wonky handle.
With a finer tool I gently round the edges on the back being careful to leave an untouched strip of the natural back going down the middle to maintain the integrity of the bow.
Getting closer, I'll refine it further later I just wanted to get it close to the final dimensions so there weren't any surprises later.
