Power Sander Survey:

[Comancheria]

Now that I am getting real close to spending more than I can afford on a bandsaw, I am beginning to realize that I won't have much--if any--left over to spend on either a belt or palm sander.  This comes close on the heels of seeing Bubby's (in his board-bow buildalong) use of his bench-mounted belt sander to sand down to the line after sawing CLOSE to the line.  Having hacked out two boards with chisel, hammer, and rasps, And having picked everybody's brain about bandsaws, I am now convinced that the bandsaw is a necessity--for my enjoyment of bowyering.

I am not so sure about power sanders--I might be able to live without one.  (I know for sure that I will not try to use one for final tillering.)  So I would like to hear from all of you:

Do you personally use a power sander for making bows?

If so, what kind?  Belt, Orbital, Random-orbital?  Bench mounted or hand held?

And  what do you use it for? Boards only?  Or staves as well?  And at what stages of the build?

Thanks and best regards,

Russ

[JonW]

I use a 6"x48" belt sander for everything, even down to final tiller.

[Eric Krewson]

I have a 6X48 Griz belt sander, handy for a variety of bow making jobs.

I do my finish tillering and slicking up a bows washboard exterior with a cheap $13 palm sander from Wal-Mart. I prefer to use stick on pads on my sander even though is isn't designed for such. I stick them on and remove them after heating them with a heat gun to soften the glue. I hate fumbling with the normal sanding sheets and trying to get them under the spring clips.

[huisme]

I've really only had us for a 1Xwhatever, higher rpm is nice for reducing dense overlays before I apply them.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I use hand tools 94.3% of the time even though Im full of power tools. Its pretty hard to ruin a good bow tip overlay on a power sander if you don't use one.

[DC]

I just have this little thing,3x24. Picture shows vertical but it will lay down. I use it constantly. Actually the most used power tool in the shop. I wish I had a bit bigger one for arrows but this works. As far as actually working on the bow, I only use it for the tips.

[Wooden Spring]

I use a 6x48 beltsander. You can find good-ole Craftsmans in great shape in pawn shops for next to nothing.

Also, if you are using facetting tillering (as described in Dean Torges' book: "Hunting the Osage Bow") I would highly recommend using an angle grinder with a sanding disk attachment (I use 40 grit). This makes wood disappear faster than any tool I've ever used. A buddy of mine in NC who build boats swears by them as an indespensible tool.

Anyway, just like the bandsaw, when you get your facetted lines marked on the bow, this tool can get you to the line on all 4 sides in under 30 minutes - and I'm SLOW... This is MUCH faster than any rasp will do for you, and the BEST part is that you don't get carpel tunnel from using it!

[RyanY]

I use a belt sander from time to time but I find myself using it less and less as I become better with different hand tools I've acquired. To get close to lines I almost exclusively use a spoke shave. Now that I have a Stanley hand plane I've been using that a lot more as the shavings can be less than paper thin. I'd say a good belt sander is a great investment but don't think that you need it. If you're short on cash save it up and use hand tools in the mean time. You may find you don't need the belt sander at all! I've also found out recently that a flat board with a very coarse grit belt glued on can make a great rasp that is guaranteed a flat surface.

[simson]

I do all per hand tools, I like to have very sharp tools. And I believe I'm much faster as with power tools - and no fear to detroy a stave by accident. Just my 2 cent.

[missilemaster]

I use hand tools 94.3% of the time even though Im full of power tools. Its pretty hard to ruin a good bow tip overlay on a power sander if you don't use one.

 Its pretty hard to ruin one if you are used to using one too!

[missilemaster]

I have both the Grizzly 6X48 and the rigid ocilating edge sander/spindle sander. Both are great.

[blackhawk]

I wouldn't know how to build a bow without one. 

[mikekeswick]

Ryoon - Instead of a board try using thick glass to stick your paper to. It will never move and you'll do well to ever wear it away - so it stays flat.
I use my belt sander all the time, get the most powerful you can afford. An edge sander is also very useful for board bows but they are a lot of pennies for a good one.
Does anyone else use Zirconium belts?

[bubby]

That ridgid oscillating sander works great with the belt sander and spindle sander, i get down to the line with the smooth side of my farriers rasp most of the time but they are great for getting good glue lines

[Parnell]

I say it is all what you get used to.  I've ruined staves with a farrier rasp, I've ruined staves with a bandsaw.

I've got a belt sander and a orbital palm sander.  Lately, I use the palm sander more than the belt sander.  You can actually work the nooks and crannies of a bow with a palm sander and fine grit paper if you want.  Bet you can find a good used one at a pawn shop, too.