hickory backed hickory tiller check please

[Lee Lobbestael]

your fd looks good! As far as set goes, is your wood good and dry before you begin tillering? Also how do you go about tillering? I get mine braced as soon as possible and I exercise it twenty times after each time I remove wood. I also never draw the bow past my intended draw weight. This method combined with dry wood will lead to low set. It looks like maybe you were pulling it a bit far before bracing the bow

[TimothyR]

The wood was dry and I've only drew it to 28" a couple of times.   And I exercised the the limbs about 20 times after scrapping.  I must have pulled it to far to soon. I haven't checked it for a couple hours so it may have settled down a bit. Will that kinda set kill the bow?

[E. Jensen]

More towards the tips if you ask me.

[Joec123able]

You should look on the belly and see if you see any chrysals

[Danzn Bar]

Great job for your 4th bow,  make sure of your finger location (arrow nocking point ) when pulling and taking pics when doing the final tiller. an inch or two one way or the other will make a big difference.
DBar

[lebhuntfish]

Great job for your 4th bow,  make sure of your finger location (arrow nocking point ) when pulling and taking pics when doing the final tiller. an inch or two one way or the other will make a big difference.
DBar

More towards the tips if you ask me.

+1 on both. Looks great for your fourth bow.

Your handle looks pretty thick still to me. That can help with the draw length just a tad.

62ntn ain't bad for 28" it's a little close. That may be where your getting some of your set. I am finishing up one now that is 57ntn with a stiff handle pulling it to 27" but it's Osage.
Looks good, Patrick.

[simson]

Same what Patrick said.

Don't want to hitchhike that thread, but what is the motivation th back hickory with hickory? Is the main lam a board with grain running off, or what? I'm no expert on hick.

[bushboy]

It's always best to stand parallel to a wall and try to get the best right angle shot(trying not to cant)that you can.as noted, I find it best to use an arrow when doing a f/d pic because I find it easier to have every thing square up naturally.i like to monitor the set from the get go,constantly unbracing and sighting down the limbs to note the deformation and using it as a guide in my tillering strategy. Also try to keep the set mostly in the Midlimbs because set closer to the fades will equal loads at the tips

[H Rhodes]

Hope I m note being redundant here but its pulling to 25" and about 35#.  Its 64" t2t and im going for 28" is that possible.

How is your tiller tree set up?  I can't tell from the photo.  Was the bow drawn with a pulley arrangement from underneath for the photo or did you hook the bowstring on a notch or a screw?  What I am getting at in my round about way is how long you kept the bow drawn to 25".  Holding one that far drawn for too long a time can induce some set, and especially before all your tillering imperfections have been worked out.  I don't leave one drawn for more than a few seconds anywhere past twenty inches of draw.  My observations on tiller past twenty inches are made through photos, mirrors, shadows on the wall, or having someone else draw it while I watch.  Final tiller for me has to be achieved based on how the bow works in hand.  Hope that helps.  All of my babbling aside, good work on your bow. 

[TimothyR]

More towards the tips if you ask me.

your right im going to take some more from mid limb to tips today.

[TimothyR]

You should look on the belly and see if you see any chrysals

I see no chrysals yet.  The last hickory I made was a Molly and it chrysaled in the top limb but stills shoots.  Lost about 5# of weight though. 

[TimothyR]

Hope I m note being redundant here but its pulling to 25" and about 35#.  Its 64" t2t and im going for 28" is that possible.

How is your tiller tree set up?  I can't tell from the photo.  Was the bow drawn with a pulley arrangement from underneath for the photo or did you hook the bowstring on a notch or a screw?  What I am getting at in my round about way is how long you kept the bow drawn to 25".  Holding one that far drawn for too long a time can induce some set, and especially before all your tillering imperfections have been worked out.  I don't leave one drawn for more than a few seconds anywhere past twenty inches of draw.  My observations on tiller past twenty inches are made through photos, mirrors, shadows on the wall, or having someone else draw it while I watch.  Final tiller for me has to be achieved based on how the bow works in hand.  Hope that helps.  All of my babbling aside, good work on your bow.

I have my tillering tree nailed to a stud with green board behind it for contrast...(it was hard to see the bow in pics). I have everything that I need to for a pulley system except for the cable.  As soon as I get that I will set it up correctly.  I have notches every 1"starting at 7" up to 32".  And I think your right I keep it pulled to long. I dint even think about that.  I will remember that on my next one.

[H Rhodes]

Looks great for your 4th.   I have made a couple or three hundred bows by now I guess and I still manage to screw one up from time to time - you never stop learning in this bow building stuff!     I can tell that you are bit by the bowyering bug.  There will be lots of fine bows in your future.  I think that you have learned a lot on this build. 

[mikekeswick]

To my eye the right inner limb in the first picture was bending too much and the tips not quite enough on both limbs. As you progressed you didn't correct these problems and the full draw picture shows the same thing. Ideally you should have corrected it before bracing it.
 
One thing I keep a really close eye on is how the bow takes set as it gets bent further. Set is the wood showing you that it's working hard. A bow will always take some set - it's unavoidable but you can limit it by distributing it along the full limb - aiming for very little inner limb a bit mid limb and the most mid to outer limb. So if one area alone takes set after exercising it is weak. An area that shows no set is stiff. The wood will tell you what to do......if you know how to listen 

[bradsmith2010]

it might be a moisture content thing making the set,, your tiller is pretty good,,,maybe the limbs could bend a little more evenly mid limb out,, but really hard to tell in a photo,,