Tiller check and other please

[SeanStuart]

Hello!!

My third bow, so not too experienced. I broke the first, second is pretty light, this one is a beast. How does this tiller look?

I think maybe it needs some scraping out in the one foot near the tips. It looks a little stiff there?

I have worked it to about 18 inches, and it is about 40#. I am probably going to have to remove some wood. It is going to be too strong for me. I would like about 45-50# at 28 or 29 inches. I am a little surprised at the weight. It is 70" long, 1.5" wide and a bit over 5/8" thick at the widest. Tapering a bit. Walnut sandwiched in Maple backed with Linen canvas.

So I guess I will work it to the weight I want, then scrape and sand until I have the draw length? Is that the right process? Thanks.

[Pat B]

The bend looks pretty good to me but the belly already looks to be thinner than the back. If you remove the canvas you can also tiller this bow from the back. Once you get it tillered just replace the canvas...if it actually needs it.

[Jim Davis]

Something like 90 percent of the compression and tension forces are handled in the top 10 percent of the surfaces.  So  you've got plenty of maple left  on the belly to adjust the tiller without working the back.

You are  correct, the outer limbs are too stiff.

What is the front profile of this bow? If it's a pyramid, just narrow the outer limbs to get them bending.

I'm a little concerned about your handle, in that it looks like the fade into the limbs is short enough to put the handle in danger of popping off. Hope  I'm wrong.

Jim Davis

[bushboy]

I'm not sure how getting the right weight and then working on the draw length would work ? I think if you get the outer limbs coming around a bit more, round of all the edges well and exercise it lots you shouldn't be to far off.it could also be narrowed as noted to drop additional weight.bows can be deceiving in the early stages as far as weight goes,especially if you glued in some reflex.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id thin that back to almost half its current thickness.

[SeanStuart]

Thanks for the comments. I see what you guys mean about the back being too thick, but I do not want to heat the board to get the canvas off and risk loosening the glue holding the laminates together. So I think I will work with it as is, and plan better next time.

It is pyramid, 1.5 inch at the fades and narrowing to 0.5. I made the ends a bit thinner, so now a bit under 0.5". The handle is pretty tapered (Faded?), and the outer part bends with the bow. I don't think it will pop, but am not certain. I'll post if it does.

So it is a bit over 50# at around 22 inches. Still too strong.

If I get down to 1/8 or so on the belly laminate, is that going to cause a problem? It will be a bit backwards looking. Will that thin of a belly handle the compression?

Thanks.

[mikekeswick]

If it's 40# @ 18 just carry on doing what you are doing. A beginner should never think 'oh it's time to hog off a lot of wood' once its bending like it is. Just slow and steady wins the race. Keep your wood removal even and yes get it to your draw weight and then remove wood to get to your intended draw length.
Good luck!