Need input on short Osage bow.

[docmann]

I has mistakenly posted this in the "Arrows" section. I'll attempt to remove it from there, but I
ran onto a beautifully (naturally) reflexed Osage that lends itself to about 50-51" in total length.  I've fashioned a horse bow with working handle and now on the home stretch with final tillering.
My dilemma is the draw length. I have a 28-29" draw length. I have made only a few short bows, but it seems I've heard that the draw length should never exceed 1/2 of bow's total length, which in this case would be about 25". This bow has all kinds of power and is holding its shape nicely through tillering. If like to make this a hunting bow and take it to 28".  Any comments or ideas? Would like to hear from anybody, especially anyone with experience with short bows.
Thanks!!!!

[huisme]

I made a ~52" black locust working handle shorty that drew to twenty eight. Osage seems be be okay with a little more draw per inch of wood, so I'd go for it it I were you

[JonW]

If you want the bow to last tiller out to 25" and learn to shoot it at that draw. With some practice you can switch between draw lengths and do pretty well with accuracy.

[simson]

I made a ~52" black locust working handle shorty that drew to twenty eight. Osage seems be be okay with a little more draw per inch of wood, so I'd go for it it I were you

+1  and
You can back it for additional drawlength, esp. with sinew

[Buckeye Guy]

It's your bow break the rules however you like!
sinew may be the best way to keep it around a bit longer but, Osage and a perfect tiller job, you will most likely get all the hunting shots out of it that you will need anyway, just don't practice with it a hundred shots before hand or you may not be so happy with yourself
have fun

[CustomArcher15]

I think if you want the additional draw length and have it around longer I would put rawhide on the back. Not as hard as sinew and not as good but is WAY better than nothing I think. I have seen a guy on YouTube (boarriorbows) build a 48" bow for his 29" draw with rawhide on it. It even had a static riser and was a Molly with half the limbs not moving. Not saying it's the wisest choice, as I have never tried it before, but it is definitely possible.

[docmann]

Decided to set my draw length at 25" and tillered at 52#. Has a surprisingly smooth cast. Decorated it with a Yuma pattern. I haven't produced many working-handle bows, but, on the whole, I am satisfied with this one. Looking forward to the extra room I should have with this bow, especially in my ground blind.
I appreciate all of the comments and recommendations.

[Del the cat]

IMO In that FD shot the tiller looks very good and the bend doesn't look excessive.
I have limited experience with Osage, but from what I have I'd say it would take those last 3" no problem. If you were really unsure you could heat maybe 1" of extra deflex into it at the grip just to ease it down a tad.
Has it taken any appreciable set yet? If not then I'd say you are good to go a bit further.
The draw<= length/2 is just a guide, there are no "rules" 'cos the wood doesn't read the forums
If it was me I wouldn't be able to stop myself taking it those last few inches .
Del

[docmann]

The Osage has held tough so far. Almost no follow . The stave did have a little natural reflex that was worked out early in the tillering process. I tend to agree that with no give so far, it would seem unlikely that it would wimp out now with the extra pull. I've also been particularly careful to coax it slowly through the tillering with plenty of exercising over several days just to be safe. The first four arrows grouped nicely, but I just don't like the idea of modifying my draw, or shortening some of the arrows so as not to over draw.  Thanks for the shot of testosterone, might have to go ahead and see if she'll allow me those extra inches. I'll keep you informed.

[Pappy]

 What Buckeye Guy said. Good decision on the 25 inch draw if you want a bow that will last.Beautiful finish work.
   Pappy

[TRACY]

I thought that I wouldn't like the short draw but was wrong. A little practice and it will become second nature unless you're an Olympic target shooter in which case you probably wouldn't be on this site 

Patience.


Tracy

[docmann]

I suppose if the Cheyenne, Comanche, and Sioux could learn to shot shorter bows (many if which are barely 40") while shooting horseback in the midst of a thousand angry Bison, I can learn to like it from the comfort of my back yard.
Just curious, who among you would opt to cover the grip with something vs. leaving it bare? I never shoot off a shelf, but was thinking about a tight wind of leather or serving string over the grip. However, and because of covering a great deal of the bow's belly with paint, I kind of like what little bare Osage there is showing there.
By the way, I've posted the scale drawing of the bow I attempted to replicate. This bow is indeed a Yuma bow that presently exists in the American Museum of Natural History in New York. Notice that that bow is a willow bow and of an extra foot in length. The other working handle bows I've attempted are either Cheyenne or Comanche, which would be native to my region of Western Oklahoma.
I've been pouring over the comments on the other subjects of this web site. You guys seem to know bows and construction. Glad to have bumped into this forum, and I do appreciate the comments and direction.

[Olanigw (Pekane)]

I thought that I wouldn't like the short draw but was wrong. A little practice and it will become second nature unless you're an Olympic target shooter in which case you probably wouldn't be on this site 

Patience.


Tracy

Hey now!  JOAD was good to me.  If a paper killer like me can transition to instinctive,  It can't be too far of a jump to short draw.

[Pat B]

You did a nice job on this shorty. Can we see a full draw pic?
"...a bow fully drawn is 9/10th broken..."

[IdahoMatt]

You did a nice job on this shorty. Can we see a full draw pic?
"...a bow fully drawn is 9/10th broken..."

+1