Best way to split an osage stave with a branch.

[Prarie Bowyer]

I brought hom the first stave of some storm felled osage yesterday.  It is actually from an older pile.  Not cracking yet but the bark is coming off on its own. 

There is a large limb at the end of one end.  depending on how I split it the log will make either 1 short and 1 longer bow or I'll need to "V" splice the stave after cutting out he branch section.

What is best to split it.. split the branch to one side or split through the branch?  I wan't the most possibilities for future bow designs.

[DarkSoul]

I can't visualize the log. We need to see how big it is and where the branch is located. You'll get better replies if you can post a few pictures. Take pics, load them onto your computer and upload them at www.tinypic.com

[Weylin]

I don't think that most branches work very well for splitting an osage log. I would try using an axe, a maul and some wedges instead. 

[Eric Krewson]

I would start my split on the opposite end from the branch and aim my split at it. It is unlikely the split will go through the branch, it will follow the grain around it. If the grain is straight on your stave you can kirf the split first with a skill saw, right through the knot/branch, go as deeply in several passes with the saw as you can.

[Prarie Bowyer]

i SPLIT IT THROUGH THE BRANCH. 

Question about storing staves.  are they best laid horizontal or is it ok to stand them against the wall?

How small too small to split them down while green?

How long to dry them before being useable?

I know in lumber what it tends to be for my large carving flitches (1 year).  but for bow wood i'm not certain.

[Eric Krewson]

Storing; either way
I like my staves 3" across the back
Drying, years if you keep them full sized, six months if you cut them down to bow blanks, less if you have a drying box.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Storing; either way
I like my staves 3" across the back
Drying, years if you keep them full sized, six months if you cut them down to bow blanks, less if you have a drying box.

1. LETS TALK MORE ABOUT THE DRYING BOX.  how hot and how long? 

2. this one was a large branch.  split in 1/2 it is about 4" across.  My fear is that splitting it into quarters now while it is green will only result in badly warped and twisted wood.

3.  I have much larger hard wood flitches for carving that  are dry in about a year.  like 5"x8X4'.  I think years is not necessary.

[blackhawk]

Google is your friend!!!!

[Eric Krewson]

I made my drying box 12"X12"X72", to save space.  Well insulated with three 60W bulbs on a dimmer switch will maintain 90 degrees with the bulbs barely glowing.





You don't want to throw green wood into your box as it will probably crack. I give my wood about a month of natural drying before I put it in the box.

[Prarie Bowyer]

how long in the box?

Blackhawk. .  what is google?

[DLH]

I just finished quick drying white oak (white oak is prolly easier than osage) and this is what I did and would be my recommendation. I would get the sapwood off and seal the back up real good and the ends too an leave it full width. I took my stave down to 1 thick in the limbs but it wasn't osage I wasn't in a huge hurry either. I left it inside until I quit losing weight on my scale in grams. After that I put it in my car during the day which can get up to 120s and the teens in humidity. I did this until I quit losing weight which I lost 20-30 grams can't remember exactly. I brought it back inside and it gained weight until it hits equilibrium I figured this way I would be going from dry to equilibrium instead of taking a longer time to dry down and risk having too much moisture. I also would seal the belly side to slow down the moisture loss because it will lose it quick and potentially check. I am doin this currently with a black locust stave and losing about 10 grams a day and that has slowed down a lot. I don't know about putting it in a car like I did with the oak a hot box would defiantly be more controlled. I did this over a couple of months as I had time not on any particular hurry but I would wait for someone else input. There's actually a good post by blackhawk on paleo planet of stuff he has quick dried and is a good refrence point that's what I refrenced for this black locust I have and the reason I sealed the belly of my BL. Take this all with a grain of salt cause I haven't done enough personally with white wood let alone osage to give perfect advice

[Prarie Bowyer]

Have you seen the small solar lumber kilns?

Chech them out on google.  I think I have enough wood and other obligations I can just let it air dry.

[DLH]

Solar weed lions? What's that? I think you meant solar kiln (auto correct)? I was considering building one to dry my lumber for furniture but that will be a project for later it would be perfect size for drying what I need.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Yes auto correct.

Back on topic.   What about a large diameter piece of wood?  How is that best split into billets?

[Eric Krewson]

I have so much osage I maintain an "on deck circle" in my shop of bow blanks and staves that have all been in the dry for years, no need to put them in the drying box now. I keep a few hickory bow blanks in my drying box all the time for bow students use, they are what I would call "dry-dry" having been in the box for a year or so.